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Lot #4951

PATEK PHILIPPE CALATRAVA 2533J 18k YG Retailed by Gubelin

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Introduction

Released in 1932 and named after the cross that the Calatrava Knights paraded around Spain and Portugal during the 12th and 13th centuries, the Patek Philippe Calatrava was released as a simple timepiece with broad appeal that would help secure Patek Philippe's finances following Jean and Charles Henri Stern's investment in the brand in the same year. Designed with a strict Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic in mind, the Calatrava used, and continues to use, simplicity as its means of establishing intrigue around the craftsmanship required to construct such a stunning timepiece. Without a complicated movement or a busy design, collectors gravitate towards the Calatrava's clean aesthetic and practicality, and the ref. 2533J we have here embodies that same design language perfectly. Launched in 1952 alongside the ref. 2532, to replace the ref. 565, it features a large 34.5mm case instead of the 31mm used by the ref. 96 and other dress watches at the time, and large dauphine hands. Designed as a sportier watch, it features a screw-down caseback that it took from the ref. 565 and thus offers its wearer some water resistance, making it far more capable than most other dress watches at the time. Still practical for a modern collector, the ref. 2533 merges the Calatrava's original design brief in its purest form with a diameter that contemporary collectors can enjoy to this very day.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch only

Est. value range

$15,000 – $25,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

34.5mm

Model

Calatrava

Movement

Manual-wind cal. 27 SC

Reference

2533

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

Circa 1950s

Condition

Excellent

Material

18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Beige

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Boasting a warm beige dial, the ref. 2533's huge dauphine hands and applied sword-shaped indices dominate its display, with its Gubelin signature at 6 o'clock serving as a subtle distinction between a regular production ref. 2533, and this particularly rare example.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

While 1mm smaller than its predecessor, the ref. 565, the ref. 2533 was still large for its time at 34.5mm case diameter, and thus features a rather contemporary fit on the wrist.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The yellow gold case shows light surface scratches and marks, with soft edges. The rears of the lugs retain well-defined hallmarks and stamps. The decagonal case back displays some surface scratches. The Calatrava cross-embossed winding crown remains in excellent condition. The Gübelin double-signed dial retains crisp text and shows a couple of marks in the upper half, along with some pink-hued patches across the surface, as well as some aging around the 6 o'clock index. It is fitted with a black lizard strap and a yellow gold pin buckle, both remaining in excellent condition.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.

Our Perspective

Blending tremendously modern technology for the time with a classically-informed design language, the ref. 2533J is a wonderfully contained package that easily fits within the modern horological landscape, and especially when boasting desirable traits such as a co-signature like this example.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder