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Lot #4294

Patek Philippe Calatrava 3425 Automatic Waterproof 18k YG

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Introduction

Perhaps the most iconic dress watch collection ever, the Patek Philippe Calatrava embodies the very essence of what a classically-styled timepiece should look like. Creating the entire dress watch niche in 1932 when it was released, the Calatrava has become a mainstay within Patek Philippe’s offerings, with the ref. 3425 that we have here existing as one of the mid-century Calatrava references that helped grow the collection’s name into what it is today. Launched in 1960 as part of Patek’s collection of waterproof automatic Calatravas, the ref. 3425 measures a svelte 35.5mm in diameter by today’s standards, but it was rather large for the time. A wonderfully executed reminder of Patek Philippe's craftsmanship with its thin stepped bezel, straight lugs and recessed crown, the ref. 3425J's 18kt yellow gold case combines various details into one harmonious design. Even its lugs, while they appear simple, boast a sharp angle that only made the watch more complex to create. Boasting a silver dial that is also surprisingly complex, it boasts thin applied indices and thin sword-shaped hands to match, with a small subdial at 6 o'clock that gives the ref. 3425J a surprisingly complex dial, even though it might seem simple at first, similar to how its screw-down caseback added to the timepiece's difficulty to manufacture.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$8,000 – $12,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

35.5mm

Model

Calatrava

Movement

Automatic cal. 27-460

Reference

3425

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

Circa 1960s

Condition

Excellent

Material

18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Silver

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Sporting a nicely aged silver dial with thin applied indices and thin sword-shaped hands to match, with a small subdial at 6 o'clock, the ref. 3425J's dial is filled with small details that continue to reveal themselves long after you began searching for them.

THE CASE
THE CASE

Measuring a large 35.5mm in diameter for the time (and perfect for today's tastes), the ref. 3425J's 18kt yellow gold case is a wonderfully executed reminder of Patek Philippe's craftsmanship, with its thin, stepped bezel, straight lugs, and recessed crown all combining into one harmonious design.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

The watch is in overall excellent condition. The yellow gold case shows light scratches, a couple of small nicks, and signs of a previous polish. The case back also has some light scratches. The Double-P winding crown is well defined. The dial surface shows light marks throughout, while the gold hands remain clean. It is fitted with a brown alligator strap and a yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle, both in excellent condition.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.

Our Perspective

A great entry into vintage Patek Philippe collecting. The 3425J is simple, well-proportioned, and timeless automatic dress watch that is practical, beautiful, and classic Geneva watchmaking through and through.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder