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Lot #3583

Patek Philippe Calatrava 3520D Hobnail Bezel 18k YG Retailed by Tiffany & Co.

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Introduction

The Calatrava has long been heralded as one of watchmaking’s most iconic watches. First produced in 1932 and now over 90 years old, it has gone through several changes over the decades. Perhaps one of the most surprising of those changes was in 1965 when Patek launched the ref. 3520 that we have here. Heralded as the thinnest waterproof watch, the ref. 3520 features a screw-down caseback with caseback tool indents that reveal its rather innocuous secret. Produced for almost 25 years, the ref. 3520 saw two variants across four metals, yellow, pink, white gold, and platinum. The first series ref. 3520 was fitted with the cal. 175 movement, which was based on a movement design by Piguet. In 1977, Patek Philippe began using the Geneva-sealed cal. 177 movement in the second series of ref. 3520 watches, which is what powers our example here. In 1968, Patek Philippe introduced the ref. 3520D as a braceleted version of the ref. 3520. This model continued to be produced for an extremely long time, until it was finally discontinued in 2008. Despite its age, the ref. 3520 remains a highly sought-after watch among collectors and enthusiasts. Its unique design and technical excellence make it a true classic in the world of horology, and a rather interesting reference from within the iconic Calatrava family.

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Grade

M 8

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Extract of the Archives

Est. value range

$8,000 – $12,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

32mm

Model

Calatrava

Movement

Manual-wind cal. 177

Reference

3520

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

1991

Condition

Very good

Material

18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch and Extract from the Archives

Dial Color

White

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Boasting a bright white dial with black Roman numerals, the dial of this ref. 3520 is wonderfully classical in its execution. Featuring the co-signature of Patek's most-esteemed retailer, Tiffany & Co., this example is a collector's delight.

THE CASEBACK
THE CASEBACK

While the Calatrava is indeed a dress watch, Patek intended for the ref. 3520 to be the world's thinnest waterproof watch, and so it features a screw-down caseback with six indents for a caseback tool.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

The yellow gold case is in very good condition, with some signs of wear. The hobnail bezel shows more noticeable wear around the edge. The case back retains a service sticker with some wear, and the hallmarks on the case side remain reasonably crisp. The white dial features simple Roman hour markers and a Tiffany & Co. signature in the lower half. All text is crisp, and the delicate no-lume hands are very clean. The watch is fitted with a black leather strap and retains its original yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle. It is accompanied by an extract from the Patek Philippe archive.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.

Our Perspective

Heralded as the "flattest waterproof watch in the word" upon its release, the 3520 is a smartly designed vintage Calatrava that straddles the line between the past and modernity.

Eric Ku

Co-founder