Perhaps the most iconic dress watch collection ever, the Patek Philippe Calatrava embodies the very essence of what a classically-styled timepiece should look like. Creating the entire dress watch niche in 1932 when it was released, the Calatrava has become a mainstay within Patek Philippe’s offerings. Launched in 1982 and produced until 1999, the ref. 3796D (D for decorative), stands as one of the Calatrava’s best-known neo-vintage references from over the decades of the collection’s production. Offered as a more understated watch than Patek’s typical Haute horology offerings, but a little bit more out-of-the-box than previous Calatrava references, the ref. 3796D was well balanced. Measuring 30.5mm in diameter, the ref. 3796D’s 18kt yellow gold case features a Clous de Paris guilloche-engraved bezel with elegant, curvaceous lugs that make it a wonderfully wearable watch. With an understated porcelain-white dial complementing its complex bezel, the ref. 3796D is a masterclass in watchmaking craftsmanship that has resulted in a watch of the ages, with its eventual discontinuation in 1999 providing Patek with the opportunity to launch new Calatrava variants inspired by its iconic design and aesthetic.

The very definition of Patek Philippe, with its classic, refined, and understated design, especially with its traditional Roman numerals and hobnail bezel, the ref. 3796D is a wonderful example of a neo-vintage Calatrava.