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Lot #5362

Patek Philippe Calatrava 3802/208 Clous de Paris 18K WG

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Introduction

The Patek Philippe Calatrava has long represented the manufacture's philosophy of understated elegance, with its origins dating back to the introduction of the celebrated ref. 96 in 1932. Among the collection's most recognisable design elements is the Clous de Paris bezel, a decorative guilloché pattern consisting of closely arranged pyramidal studs that catch and reflect light across their precisely defined surfaces. First introduced to the Calatrava family with the ref. 96D in 1934, this distinctive decoration would become one of Patek Philippe's most enduring signatures. The ref. 3802, introduced in 1983, brought this traditional aesthetic into a new generation, combining the classical proportions of the Calatrava with the convenience of an automatic movement and date display.

Dating to 1997, this ref. 3802/208 is an elegant white gold interpretation of the design, featuring a white porcelain dial with black Roman numerals and a beautifully executed Clous de Paris bezel. Measuring 33mm in diameter, it combines traditional dress-watch proportions with the practical advantages of the automatic calibre 315 SC, including central seconds and a quick-set date. Originally configured with an integrated 18K white gold bracelet, this example has subsequently been adapted to accommodate a leather strap, which has been attached to the remaining first links of the original bracelet. This unusual arrangement gives the watch a different character from its original bracelet configuration while retaining a connection to the reference's distinctive construction. Accompanied by its original Certificate of Origin, dated purchase receipt and additional period documentation, it offers an appealing combination of traditional Patek Philippe design and provenance.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

M 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Certificate of Origin, original receipt, four booklets and hang tag

Est. value range

$4,000 – $6,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

33mm

Model

Calatrava

Movement

Automatic Patek Philippe calibre 315 SC

Reference

3802/208

Bracelet

Leather strap attached to the remaining first links of the original 18K white gold bracelet

Year

1997

Condition

Excellent

Material

18K White Gold

Included

Certificate of Origin, original receipt, four booklets and hang tag

Dial Color

White

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

The white porcelain dial features elegant black Roman numerals, slender hands and a date aperture at three o'clock. Its restrained design provides a particularly attractive contrast to the elaborate Clous de Paris bezel.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

The 33mm 18K white gold case features the distinctive Clous de Paris bezel, with two concentric rows of finely executed pyramidal studs. Originally designed with an integrated white gold bracelet, this example retains the first bracelet links, to which a leather strap has been attached.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K white gold case shows surface scratches and some scuffs to the sides and case back. The Clous de Paris bezel is in near-mint condition, as are the matching details on the remaining first bracelet links. The Calatrava Cross-embossed winding crown is in excellent condition. The dial and hands are in near-mint condition. The original bracelet is no longer present, and the watch has been fitted with a modified leather strap attached to the remaining first links of the original bracelet. Because the bracelet has been removed, we can no longer guarantee that the watch will archive. Comes with Certificate of Origin, original purchase receipt, four booklets and hangtag.

Our Perspective

The Clous de Paris Calatrava is one of Patek Philippe's most enduring designs, and the ref. 3802 offers an appealing interpretation with its automatic movement, date complication and classical Roman numeral dial. The white gold construction lends the watch a particularly understated appearance, allowing the intricate bezel decoration to provide its principal visual distinction. .

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder