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Lot #3654

Patek Philippe Calatrava 3802J Hobnail Bezel 18k YG

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Introduction

Perhaps the most iconic dress watch collection ever, the Patek Philippe Calatrava embodies the very essence of what a classically-styled timepiece should look like. Creating the entire dress watch niche in 1932 when it was released, the Calatrava has become a mainstay within Patek Philippe’s offerings, with the ref. 3802, launched in 1983, standing as one of the best-known Calatrava references from over the decades of the collection’s production. Launched as a more accessible watch than Patek’s typical Haute horology offerings, the ref. 3802 was universally well-received. Measuring 33mm in diameter, the ref. 3802’s 18kt yellow gold case features a Clous de Paris guilloche engraved bezel with thin elegant lugs that make it a wonderfully wearable watch. With an understated white porcelain dial complementing its complex bezel, the ref. 3802 is a masterclass in watchmaking craftsmanship that has resulted in a watch of the ages, with its eventual discontinuation in the early 2010s providing Patek with the opportunity to launch new Calatrava variants inspired by its iconic design and aesthetic.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

M 8

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$6,000 – $8,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

33mm

Model

Calatrava

Movement

Automatic cal. 315/190 SC

Reference

3802J

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

Circa 1990s

Condition

Very good

Material

18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

White

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Boasting a white dial with black painted Roman numerals, black gold hands and a date aperture at 3 o'clock - a rarity for the Calatrava - the ref. 3802's display is immediately reminiscent of the traditionalist mid-century dress watches that it is inspired by, as it reveals just how much thought went into its beautifully understated design.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Measuring a svelte 33mm in diameter, the ref. 3802J's 18kt yellow gold case is a wonderfully executed reminder of Patek Philippe's craftsmanship with its clous de Paris hobnail guilloché bezel and thin elegant lugs.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

The watch is in overall very good condition. The yellow gold case has some scratches, and the outer edge of the hobnail bezel is worn in places. The hallmarks on the case are still reasonably well-defined. The dial is very clean, while the blackened seconds hand has some of its finish missing in the center. The watch is fitted with a black alligator strap with an 18k yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle in very good condition.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.

Our Perspective

A beautifully styled and carefully crafted variant of the iconic Calatrava, the ref. 3802J shows what Patek can do when they fuse their legendary craftsmanship with horological heritage and a careful eye on the small details that, when added together, have a huge impact on how a watch looks and feels.

Eric Ku

Co-founder