Introduction
Easily situated amongst the most iconic dress watches ever, the Patek Philippe Calatrava embodies the very essence of what a classically-styled timepiece should look like. Defining the entire market niche in 1932 when it debuted, the Calatrava has become the foundation of Patek Philippe’s elegant offerings, with the collection growing to include a multitude of references of various designs across a variety of dials, materials, complications and more. Offered here we have the Calatrava ref. 3923A, a Japanese market exclusive that was offered between the years of 1986 and 1999, which builds upon the Calatrava collection's history as one of Patek Philippe's best-known and best-looking dress watches. Boasting Patek's esteemed design language and closely inspired by the ref. 96, the ref. 3923A features a rarity for Patek Philippe outside of their sports watches, a stainless steel case with plenty of polished surfaces, a domed bezel and a gorgeous white dial that houses dauphine hour hands and applied faceted indices and a minimalist running seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. An exercise in minimalism, as per the Calatrava’s Bauhaus-inspired design language, the Calatrava’s clean aesthetic has been the bedrock of its offering for decades, on which the ref. 3923A builds upon.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
M 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Extract of the Archives and Service Paperwork
Est. value range
$8,000 – $12,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
31.5mm x 7mm
Model
Calatrava
Movement
Manual-wind cal. 215 PS
Reference
3923A
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
1986
Condition
Excellent
Material
Stainless steel
Included
Watch, Extract of the Archives and Service Paperwork
Dial Color
Silver
THE DIAL
Decidedly Bauhaus in its execution, the ref. 3923A features a minimalist dial design with faceted hour markers and dauphine hands set upon a bright silver dial with a subtle running seconds subdial at 6 o'clock.
THE CONSTRUCTION
Closely inspired by the original Calatrava, the ref. 96, the ref. 3923A features an entirely polished stainless steel construction that measures in at a svelte 31.5mm in diameter and comes in at just under 7mm thick.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
The watch is in overall excellent condition. The stainless steel case is very clean, with a well-defined case profile and some surface scratches, most noticeably on the backs of the lugs. The solid case back retains a well-defined circular brushed finish. The silvered dial is pristine, featuring no-lume white gold hands. The watch is fitted with a brown leather strap with a Patek Philippe stainless steel buckle in very good condition. It comes with an extract from the Patek Philippe archives and some Patek Philippe Japan paperwork.
Our Perspective
A stunning example of the Calatrava's Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic that combines the brand's neo-vintage craftsmanship with vintage inspiration and a limited Japan-only production run, the ref. 3923A is a special watch in more ways than one.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
