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Lot #3148

Patek Philippe Calatrava 438 Breguet Luminous Dial and Hands 18k YG

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Introduction

Released in 1932 and named after the cross that the Calatrava Knights paraded around Spain and Portugal during the 12th and 13th centuries, the Patek Philippe Calatrava was released as a simple timepiece with broad appeal that would help secure Patek Philippe's finances following Jean and Charles Henri Stern's investment in the brand in the same year. Designed with a strict Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic in mind, the Calatrava used, and continues to use, simplicity as its means of establishing intrigue around the craftsmanship required to construct such a stunning timepiece. Without a complicated movement or a busy design, collectors gravitate towards the Calatrava's clean aesthetic and practicality, and the ref. 438 that we have here embodies that same design language perfectly. Launched in 1935 as a “boy-size Calatrava,” the ref. 438 was a smaller version of the original Calatrava with a 28mm case instead of the 31mm used by the ref. 96. Designed as a slightly sportier watch, it was the very first Patek to feature a screw-down caseback and offer its wearer some water resistance, making it far more capable than most other dress watches at the time. Featuring radium luminous blued hands and hour marker plots, this example’s silver dial provides a window back in time to how watches used to be made, with its applied Breguet numerals completing the design of this impeccable timepiece.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$6,000 – $12,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

28mm

Model

Calatrava

Movement

Manual-wind cal. 10-110

Reference

438

Bracelet

14kt yellow gold non-original bracelet

Year

Circa 1945

Condition

Very Good

Material

18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Silver

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Boasting blued radium-filled hands atop its darkened silver dial with applied Breguet numerals, this example's dial hosts a wonderfully distinct vintage appeal.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

While its 14kt yellow gold beads of rice bracelet is not original to the watch, this ref. 438 benefits from the additional presence it provides, allowing it to be worn much more easily than it svelte 28mm diameter would first have you assume.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in very good overall condition. Case shows oxidation and surface wear commensurate with its age. There are no significant dings or marks visible on the surface, and the gold hallmark near the crown is well defined and legible. Exterior of caseback has a superficial mark across the middle of the surface. The original luminous Breguet dial featuring a long "PPCo." signature is in excellent condition. There are small signs of wear along the edge of the dial, with some minor marks visible on the dial surface and subdial. Radium dots on the dial have aged to a dark color. Blued radium hands have a lighter tone than the dial luminous. Crystal has some surface scuffs and scratches. The watch is fitted to a period associated bracelet in 14k with a monogram on the exterior clasp and an engraving on the inner suface near the 14k gold stamp. Band fits an approx 7 1/2" wrist.

Our Perspective

A seldom-seen watch at the best of times, the ref. 438 is a legendary offering thanks to its status as the first time a screw-down caseback was offered in the Calatrava collection.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder