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Lot #3435

Patek Philippe Calatrava 438 Champagne Stick Dial 18k YG

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Introduction

Released in 1932 and named after the cross that the Calatrava Knights paraded around Spain and Portugal during the 12th and 13th centuries, the Patek Philippe Calatrava was released as a simple timepiece with broad appeal that would help secure Patek Philippe's finances following Jean and Charles Henri Stern's investment in the brand in the same year. Designed with a strict Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic in mind, the Calatrava used, and continues to use, simplicity as its means of establishing intrigue around the craftsmanship required to construct such a stunning timepiece. Without a complicated movement or a busy design, collectors gravitate towards the Calatrava's clean aesthetic and practicality, and the ref. 438 that we have here embodies that same design language perfectly. Launched in 1935 as a “boy-size Calatrava,” the ref. 438 was a smaller version of the original Calatrava with a 28mm case instead of the 31mm used by the ref. 96. Designed as a slightly sportier watch, it was the very first Patek to feature a screw-down caseback and offer its wearer some water resistance, making it far more capable than most other dress watches at the time. Featuring 18kt gold hands and hour markers, this example’s silver dial provides a window back in time to how watches used to be made, with its applied stick indices completing the design of this impeccable timepiece.

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Grade

V 8

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$6,000 – $12,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

28mm

Model

Calatrava

Movement

Manual-wind cal. 10-110

Reference

438

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

Circa 1945

Condition

Very Good

Material

18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Silver

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Featuring applied stick indices and matching 18kt gold hands, this example's aged silver dial reveals the timelessness of Patek Philippe's design language, with its design being mostly unchanged in today's dress watches.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

While a small watch at 28mm, the ref. 438 speaks to the Calatrava's original remit as an elegant dress watch that was designed to compliment an outfit rather than act as a focal point of its wearer's outfit.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in very good overall condition. Case exhibits moderate surface wear, with soft edges and some oxidation along the bezel edges. The original Helvetia gold hallmark by the crown is still intact and visible. The original champagne dial has strong original enameling, but the surface has some visible spotting and areas of damage on the surface as seen in the image. The screwback retains a Patek Philippe service sticker, indicating that it was serviced at some point in the past. Watch comes on a generic strap and an original 18k Patek tang buckle.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.

Our Perspective

A seldom-seen watch at the best of times, the ref. 438 is a legendary offering thanks to its status as the first time a screw-down caseback was offered in the Calatrava collection.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder