Introduction
Few modern Patek Philippe references capture the essential character of the Calatrava quite as clearly as the ref. 5196. Introduced in 2004, its design deliberately looked back to the landmark ref. 96 of 1932, translating its restrained proportions, clean dial and subsidiary seconds into a larger 37mm case. Importantly, the 5196 remained manually wound throughout its production, powered by the calibre 215 PS, an appropriately traditional choice for a watch so closely connected to the origins of the Calatrava.
This example dates to 2013 and is the ref. 5196G-001, pairing an 18K white gold case with a silvered dial. Unlike the platinum 5196P, with its distinctive applied Breguet numerals, the white gold version takes a considerably more restrained approach, using faceted applied baton hour markers and dauphine hands around a subsidiary seconds display at six o'clock. At just 37mm, the proportions remain elegant without feeling overtly vintage, while the monochromatic combination of white gold and silver gives the watch an understated character that is particularly well suited to the purity of the original Calatrava design.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
M 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Box, Certificate of Origin, booklets, document holder and hangtag
Est. value range
$15,000 – $25,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
37mm x 8mm
Model
Calatrava
Movement
Manual-wind calibre 215 PS
Reference
5196G-001
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
2013
Condition
Excellent
Material
18K White Gold
Included
Box, Certificate of Origin, booklets, document holder and hangtag
Dial Color
Silver
THE DIAL
The silvered dial is classically restrained, with faceted white gold baton markers, a discreet pearl minute track and dauphine hands. Subsidiary seconds at six o'clock provides the only interruption to the otherwise expansive dial, its elongated markers adding a subtle graphic counterpoint to the simplicity of the main display.
THE CONSTRUCTION
At 37mm in diameter and approximately 8mm thick, the 5196 subtly enlarges the proportions of the historic ref. 96 without abandoning its essential character. The polished 18K white gold case retains the familiar round form, slender bezel and gently tapered lugs, with a solid case back maintaining the deliberately traditional appearance.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K white gold case shows surface scratches and small nicks, particularly around the edge of the bezel. The case back shows some surface scratches, while the stamps and hallmarks on the backs of the lugs remain well defined. The dial and hands are in near-mint condition. It is fitted with a black Patek Philippe leather strap and 18K white gold pin buckle showing light scuffs. Comes with inner and outer boxes, Certificate of Origin, various booklets and paperwork, document holder and hangtag. The name on the certificate of origin has been crudely removed and the paper surface is abraded as seen in the images.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
The appeal of the 5196G lies in how little it tries to do. There is no date, automatic winding or visible movement competing for attention, simply hours, minutes and subsidiary seconds in a beautifully proportioned white gold case. The 5196G comes very close to the restrained philosophy of the original ref. 96, making it one of the purest modern interpretations of the Calatrava.
Justin Gruenberg
Co-founder
