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Lot #3765

Patek Philippe Calatrava 565A HP Breguet Dial Stainless Steel

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Introduction

Released in 1932 and named after the cross that the Calatrava Knights paraded around Spain and Portugal during the 12th and 13th centuries, the Patek Philippe Calatrava was released as a simple timepiece with broad appeal that would help secure Patek Philippe's finances following Jean and Charles Henri Stern's investment in the brand in the same year. Designed with a strict Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic in mind, the Calatrava used, and continues to use, simplicity as its means of establishing intrigue around the craftsmanship required to construct such a stunning timepiece. Without a complicated movement or a busy design, collectors gravitate towards the Calatrava's clean aesthetic and practicality, and the ref. 565 we have here embodies that same design language perfectly. Launched in 1938 alongside the ref. 570, the ref. 565 was a larger version of the original Calatrava (the ref. 96) with a 35.5mm case instead of the 31mm used by the ref. 96. Designed as a sportier watch, it was the first Patek to feature a screw-down caseback and offer its wearer some water resistance, making it far more capable than most other dress watches at the time. Still practical for a modern collector, the ref. 565 merges the Calatrava's original design brief in its purest form with a diameter that contemporary collectors can enjoy to this very day.

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Grade

V 8

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$20,000 – $30,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

35.5mm

Model

Calatrava

Movement

Manual-wind cal. 12-400

Reference

565

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

Circa 1950s

Condition

Very Good

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Silver

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Boasting a silver Breguet numeral dial that perfectly matches its stainless steel case, this ref. 565A is a wonderful example of Patek's mid-century watchmaking prowess with its bright hands, applied Breguet numerals, and small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock, as powered by its manual-wind cal. 12-400 movement below.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Nicknamed the "Calatravone," the ref. 565 has its large 35.5mm case diameter to thank for its nickname and outstanding, and rather contemporary, fit on the wrist. In addition to its larger size, it was also the first Patek to feature a screw-down caseback.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

The watch is in overall very good condition. The steel case has been detailed and shows little wear on the polished bezel and lugs. Some softness is evident on the edges. The decagonal screw-down case back is in excellent condition. The dial is in very good condition. It has been cleaned at some point, and the engraved signature is soft but still fully visible. Small marks can be seen on the surface. The polished hour and minute hands and the blued small seconds hand are all very clean. The watch is fitted with a brown leather strap in good used condition with a generic steel buckle. Please note
that while we have no reason to believe the dial is not original to the watch, it does not come with an Extract of the Archives and there is no guarantee that the Breguet indexes will be referenced in the notes.

Our Perspective

A calculated release on Patek's behalf as they noticed the shrinking demand for the ref. 96's small 31mm case, the ref. 565 was Patek's legendary solution to a contentious topic watchmakers still haven't resolved to this day; how big should watches be?

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder