Lot #5158
Patek Philippe Calatrava 96 18K RG "Pink on Pink Breguet Dial" with Extract from the Archives
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Introduction
Few watches have had as profound an influence on the traditional round wristwatch as the Patek Philippe reference 96. Introduced in 1932, shortly after the Stern family took control of the manufacture, the reference helped establish a new direction for Patek Philippe as wristwatches increasingly took precedence over pocket watches. Its restrained proportions, integrated lugs and emphasis on balance created a blueprint that would ultimately become synonymous with the Calatrava and influence generations of dress watches that followed.
This example, produced in 1941 according to its Extract from the Archives, is a particularly attractive execution of the reference. Its 31mm case is rendered in 18K rose gold and houses the manually wound calibre 12-400, while the salmon-coloured dial features applied Breguet numerals, a subsidiary seconds display and elegant spade hands. Given the desirability of early reference 96s with unusual dial configurations, the combination of rose gold, salmon dial and Breguet numerals makes this a compelling expression of one of Patek Philippe's foundational wristwatch designs.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Box and Extract from the Archives
Est. value range
$40,000 – $60,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
31mm
Model
Calatrava
Movement
Manual-wind cal. 12-400
Reference
96R
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
1941
Condition
Excellent
Material
18K Rose Gold
Included
Box and Extract from the Archives
Dial Color
Salmon
THE DIAL
The salmon-coloured dial gives this reference 96 a distinctly different character from its more restrained siblings. Applied Breguet numerals are paired with elegant spade hands and a subsidiary seconds display at 6 o'clock, creating an unusually expressive interpretation of the otherwise minimalist Calatrava design.
THE CONSTRUCTION
At just 31mm in diameter, the reference 96 demonstrates how much of its enduring appeal comes from proportion rather than size. Its round rose gold case, thin bezel and sharply integrated lugs established an architectural formula that became fundamental to the Calatrava and remains influential more than ninety years after the reference was introduced.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The rose gold case shows surface scratches and tiny nicks, as expected of a watch of this vintage. The case back bears a personal engraving. The hallmark on the crown side of the case remains legible. The winding crown is in excellent condition. The pink dial is excellent, with some oxidation and wear to the finish of the applied Breguet numerals. The raised Patek Philippe signature is still strong, but there is a small break visible on the top of the "A" in Patek Philippe. It is fitted with a brown leather strap and a pink gold Patek Philippe pin buckle. Comes with a vintage Patek Philippe presentation box and an Extract from the Patek Philippe Archives.
Our Perspective
The reference 96 is important not because of complexity, but because it established proportions and principles that became the foundation of the modern dress watch. This 1941 example adds considerably more character to that historically important "Pink on Pink" configuration, combining an 18K rose gold case with a rose dial, applied Breguet numerals and spade hands. Accompanied by its Extract from the Archives, it is an especially appealing version of one of Patek Philippe's most consequential references.
