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Lot #1604

Patek Philippe Calatrava 96 18k Yellow Gold

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Introduction

Released in 1932 and named after the 12th century Calatrava Knights from Spain and Portugal, the Calatrava ref. 96 was released as a simple Bauhaus-inspired timepiece with a broad appeal that could help resecure Patek Philippe's finances after Jean and Charles Henri Stern bought a controlling stake in the watchmaker earlier in the same year. Born from the dying embers of the dwindling art deco period and its weakening influence on design, the Calatrava features a minimalist aesthetic that utilizes simplicity as its means of establishing intrigue and garnering attention for its immaculately constructed case and dial. Launched as the first Calatrava reference and produced for 41 years until 1973, the ref. 96 found success by leaning into its practical design rather than the exuberance of any complications or a busy design - a clear departure from the Art Deco period's designs. With a simple 18kt yellow gold case that measures 31mm across and equally understated eggshell white dial with dauphine hands and applied hour markers, the ref. 96 is the utter epitome of understated elegance and vintage luxury watchmaking. Having gone on to become the archetypal dress watch, what the Calatrava lacks in exuberance and flashy details, it makes up for it with a beautifully executed design that is confident in its own worth as a horological masterpiece.

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Grade

V 8

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$3,000 – $5,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

31mm x 9mm

Model

Calatrava

Movement

Manual-wind cal. 12-400

Reference

96

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

circa 1950

Condition

Good

Material

18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Eggshell white

THE DIAL

Perhaps its most understated piece of design, the Calatrava's dial communicates its Bauhaus inspiration through its simple dauphine hands, dagger-shaped applied hour markers and minimalistic subdial.

THE MOVEMENT

Contrasting its famously understated design, the Calatrava's cal. 12-400 movement is a mesmerizing mix of fine hand-finishing, labyrinthine architecture and beautiful polishing.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in good overall condition. Lugs are worn over time, and the edges are soft. There is an engraving on the caseback. The dial was refinished at service at some point and has some corrosion along the bottom edge and minor oxidation along some of the indexes.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.

Our Perspective

Having gone on to become the blueprint of a perfect dress watch, the Calatrava ref. 96's is completely deserving of its incredibly impressive 41-year-long production history.

Eric Ku

Co-founder