Introduction
Released in 1932 and named after the 12th century Calatrava Knights from Spain and Portugal, the Calatrava ref. 96 was released as a simple Bauhaus-inspired timepiece with a broad appeal that could help resecure Patek Philippe's finances after Jean and Charles Henri Stern bought a controlling stake in the watchmaker earlier in the same year. Born from the dying embers of the dwindling art deco period and its weakening influence on design, the Calatrava features a minimalist aesthetic that utilizes simplicity as its means of establishing intrigue and garnering attention for its immaculately constructed case and dial. Launched as the first Calatrava reference and produced for 41 years until 1973, the ref. 96 found success by leaning into its practical design rather than the exuberance of any complications or a busy design - a clear departure from the Art Deco period's designs. With a simple 18kt yellow gold case that measures 31mm across and equally understated eggshell white dial with dauphine hands and applied hour markers, the ref. 96 is the utter epitome of understated elegance and vintage luxury watchmaking. Having gone on to become the archetypal dress watch, what the Calatrava lacks in exuberance and flashy details, it makes up for it with a beautifully executed design that is confident in its own worth as a horological masterpiece.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$3,000 – $5,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
31mm x 9mm
Model
Calatrava
Movement
Manual-wind cal. 12-400
Reference
96
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
circa 1950
Condition
Good
Material
18kt yellow gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Eggshell white
Condition
Watch is in good overall condition. Lugs are worn over time, and the edges are soft. There is an engraving on the caseback. The dial was refinished at service at some point and has some corrosion along the bottom edge and minor oxidation along some of the indexes.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
Having gone on to become the blueprint of a perfect dress watch, the Calatrava ref. 96's is completely deserving of its incredibly impressive 41-year-long production history.