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Lot #5407

Patek Philippe Calatrava 96 Breguet Radium Dial Stainless Steel with Extract of the Archives (Confirmed Dial)

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Introduction

Introduced in 1932, the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 established a design philosophy that would influence the manufacture's dress watches for generations. Its restrained round case, integrated lugs and elegantly balanced dial reflected the growing influence of modernist design, offering a departure from the elaborate decorative styles of the preceding decades. The reference remained in production for more than four decades, during which Patek Philippe explored numerous variations in dial design, case materials and movements. Although most examples were produced in precious metals, a relatively small number were manufactured in stainless steel, making these watches particularly interesting to collectors today. Among the most desirable configurations are those fitted with applied Breguet numerals, whose distinctive typography adds an additional layer of refinement to the Calatrava's otherwise understated design.

Manufactured in 1945 and sold on 28 August of the same year, this stainless steel ref. 96 represents a particularly compelling combination of case material and dial configuration. Its silvered dial features applied steel Breguet numerals, complemented by radium-filled hands and luminous plots positioned along the outer railway minute track. These details give the watch a subtly more purposeful character than the conventional Calatrava, combining the elegance of its applied numerals with the practicality of luminous indications. The 31mm stainless steel case retains the beautifully proportioned architecture of the original ref. 96, while the manually wound calibre 12-120 provides the traditional mechanical foundation. Importantly, the accompanying Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives explicitly confirms the silvered dial with applied steel Breguet numerals and radium, establishing the original specification of this unusual configuration. For collectors of vintage Patek Philippe, the combination of a steel case, Breguet numerals and documented radium dial makes this a particularly noteworthy example of the celebrated reference.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Extract from the Archives

Est. value range

$40,000 – $60,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

31mm

Model

Calatrava

Movement

Manual-winding Patek Philippe Calibre 12-120

Reference

96

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

1945

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Extract from the Archives

Dial Color

Silvered with Applied Steel Breguet Numerals

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

The silvered dial features applied steel Breguet numerals, a particularly desirable configuration among vintage Calatrava collectors. Radium-filled hands are complemented by luminous plots positioned along the outer railway minute track, with a tropical hue from the Radium over the past 80 years.

THE EXTRACT FROM THE ARCHIVES

THE EXTRACT FROM THE ARCHIVES

The accompanying Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives, dated 29 September 2026, confirms that the watch was manufactured in 1945 and sold on 28 August 1945. It records the original silvered dial featuring applied steel Breguet numerals and radium. This documentation is particularly significant given the unusual combination of dial configuration and stainless steel construction.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The stainless steel case is well defined, with surface scratches and small marks, as expected of a watch of this vintage. The case back shows some light pitting. The dial exhibits crazing across its original enameled surface and has developed a light brown hue from radium burn. The luminous hour plots have darkened, while the applied Breguet numerals show some tarnishing. The blued central hands retain their original radium luminous material. Signature is strong and raised. The crystal shows some crazing and surface scratches. It is fitted with a black leather strap and stainless steel pin buckle. Comes with original box, Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming the Breguet dial, and accompanying correspondence from the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives team.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.

Our Perspective

Stainless steel Calatrava ref. 96 watches are already highly sought after, but this example's applied Breguet numerals and radium detailing make it particularly compelling. Recently discovered, this example sat sleeping in a bank safe for 40+ years. It is very rare to find a luminous example with original lume plots on the dial and unrestored hands, so this one truly is a unicorn. The accompanying Extract from the Archives confirms its unusual original dial configuration, an important distinction for discerning vintage Patek Philippe collectors.

Eric Ku

Co-founder