Lot #4880
Patek Philippe Calatrava 96 Breuget Dial 18k YG with Extract of the Archives
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Introduction
Released in 1932 and named after the 12th century Calatrava Knights from Spain and Portugal, the Calatrava ref. 96 was released as a simple Bauhaus-inspired timepiece with a broad appeal that could help resecure Patek Philippe's finances after Jean and Charles Henri Stern bought a controlling stake in the watchmaker earlier in the same year. Born from the dying embers of the dwindling art deco period and its weakening influence on design, the Calatrava features a minimalist aesthetic that utilizes simplicity as its means of establishing intrigue and garnering attention for its immaculately constructed case and dial. Launched as the first Calatrava reference and produced for 41 years until 1973, the ref. 96 found success by leaning into its practical design rather than the exuberance of any complications or a busy design - a clear departure from the Art Deco period's designs. With a simple case that measures 31mm across and an equally understated silver dial with applied Breguet Arabic numerals along with dauphine hands, the ref. 96 is the utter epitome of classical luxury watchmaking, where less is more. Having gone on to become the archetypal dress watch, what the Calatrava lacks in exuberance and flashy details, it makes up for it with a beautifully executed design that is confident in its own worth as a horological masterpiece.
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Grade
V 8
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Extract of the Archives
Est. value range
$15,000 – $25,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
31mm
Model
Calatrava
Movement
Manual-wind cal. 12-120
Reference
96J
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
1945
Condition
Very good
Material
18kt yellow gold
Included
Watch and Extract from the Archives
Dial Color
Silver

THE DIAL
Typically the ref. 96's most understated piece of design, the Calatrava's dial communicates its Bauhaus inspiration through its simple hands, center seconds hand, and Breguet numerals.

THE CONSTRUCTION
While it might seem small by today's standards, the ref. 96's 31mm diameter case is how the Calatrava was originally designed and produced for over 40 years.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall very good condition. The yellow gold case shows surface scratches and small nicks as expected of a watch of this vintage, while the case back displays a personal engraving and some deeper scratches. The hallmarks on the case sides remain legible. The dial shows crazing to the surface, particularly around the signature, with some areas of loss. The applied Breguet numerals show some oxidation, while the hands remain very clean. It is fitted with a brown alligator strap and a gold-toned pin buckle. Comes with a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
Having gone on to become the blueprint of a perfect dress watch, the Calatrava ref. 96's is completely deserving of its incredibly impressive 41-year-long production history.

















