Introduction
Released in 1932 and named after the 12th century Calatrava Knights from Spain and Portugal, the Calatrava ref. 96 was released as a simple Bauhaus-inspired timepiece with a broad appeal that could help resecure Patek Philippe's finances after Jean and Charles Henri Stern bought a controlling stake in the watchmaker earlier in the same year. Born from the dying embers of the dwindling art deco period and its weakening influence on design, the Calatrava features a minimalist aesthetic that utilizes simplicity as its means of establishing intrigue and garnering attention for its immaculately constructed case and dial. Launched as the first Calatrava reference and produced for 41 years until 1973, the ref. 96 found success by leaning into its practical design rather than the exuberance of any complications or a busy design - a clear departure from the Art Deco period's designs. With a simple platinum case that measures 31mm across and an equally understated yet thoroughly luxurious white dial with dauphine hands and diamond-set markers, the ref. 96 is the utter epitome of classical luxury watchmaking where less is more. Having gone on to become the archetypal dress watch, what the Calatrava lacks in exuberance and flashy details, it makes up for it with a beautifully executed design that is confident in its own worth as a horological masterpiece.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Extract of the Archives
Est. value range
$40,000 – $60,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
31mm
Model
Calatrava
Movement
Manual-wind cal. 12-400
Reference
96
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
1948
Condition
Excellent
Material
Platinum
Included
Watch and archive papers
Dial Color
White
THE DIAL
Typically the ref. 96's most understated piece of design, the Calatrava's dial communicates its Bauhaus inspiration through its simple dauphine hands and minimalistic subdial, however this example's diamond-set hour markers break from that aesthetic and add a subtle hint of luxury.
THE CONSTRUCTION
While it might seem small by today's standards, the ref. 96's 31mm diameter case is how the Calatrava was originally designed and produced for over 40 years.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Please note: the movement is ticking at time of cataloging, but it is keeping poor time and a service is recommended.
Condition
Watch is in excellent overall condition. While the case exhibits some surface marks and scratches, the lugs are full and have sharp edges and retain both original platinum hallmarks. (Visible on the 9 o'clock side and on the backside of the 4 o'clock lug) The original indelible raised enamel dial with diamond indexes is in near-mint condition. It is virtually flawless and one of the best examples we have seen. The text is well defined, with a strong comma after Patek, and a crisp accent above the first E in GENEVE. Watch comes on a generic leather strap and an original PPCo 18k WG Wenger buckle. Watch is accompanied by a Patek Extract of the Archives specifying the dial type as "Diamond hour-markers" and mentioning the date of sale as July 8th, 1948. Please note: the movement is ticking at time of cataloging, but it is keeping poor time and a service is recommended.
Addendum: The second image in the carousel shows the dial with the crystal removed. Please note that any marks or aberrations you see are from the crystal, and are not on the dial.
Our Perspective
Having gone on to become the blueprint of a perfect dress watch, the Calatrava ref. 96's is completely deserving of its incredibly impressive 41-year-long production history.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
