Released in 1932 and named after the 12th century Calatrava Knights from Spain and Portugal, the Calatrava ref. 96 was released as a simple Bauhaus-inspired timepiece with a broad appeal that could help resecure Patek Philippe's finances after Jean and Charles Henri Stern bought a controlling stake in the watchmaker earlier in the same year. Born from the dying embers of the dwindling art deco period and its weakening influence on design, the Calatrava features a minimalist aesthetic that utilizes simplicity as its means of establishing intrigue and garnering attention for its immaculately constructed case and dial. Launched as the first Calatrava reference and produced for 41 years until 1973, the ref. 96 found success by leaning into its practical design rather than the exuberance of any complications or a busy design - a clear departure from the Art Deco period's designs. With a simple platinum case that measures 31mm across and an equally understated yet thoroughly luxurious white dial with feuille hands and diamond-set markers, the ref. 96 is the utter epitome of classical luxury watchmaking, where less is more. Having gone on to become the archetypal dress watch, what the Calatrava lacks in exuberance and flashy details, it makes up for it with a beautifully executed design that is confident in its own worth as a horological masterpiece.

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The platinum case shows surface marks and light scratches consistent with age, with fully legible hallmarks visible on the lug back and case side, and a well-defined platinum stamp on the case back. The Calatrava cross on the crown remains crisp and well defined. The silver dial with diamond hour markers shows some light surface marks along with a couple of small scratches. It has been cleaned at some point, and the finish of the dial is metallic. The original signature on the dial is original but shows minimal releif. It is fitted with a generic leather strap and a generic steel buckle. Comes with two Patek Philippe Extracts from the Archives, one dated 2005 and the other from 2025.

Having gone on to become the blueprint of a perfect dress watch, the Calatrava ref. 96's is completely deserving of its incredibly impressive 41-year-long production history.