Introduction
Released in 1932 and named after the 12th century Calatrava Knights from Spain and Portugal, the Calatrava ref. 96 was released as a simple Bauhaus-inspired timepiece with a broad appeal that could help resecure Patek Philippe's finances after Jean and Charles Henri Stern bought a controlling stake in the watchmaker earlier in the same year. Born from the dying embers of the dwindling art deco period and its weakening influence on design, the Calatrava features a minimalist aesthetic that utilizes simplicity as its means of establishing intrigue and garnering attention for its immaculately constructed case and dial. Launched as the first Calatrava reference and produced for 41 years until 1973, the ref. 96 found success by leaning into its practical design rather than the exuberance of any complications or a busy design - a clear departure from the Art Deco period's designs. With a simple stainless steel case that measures 31mm across and an equally understated silver dial with applied indices and quarter Arabic numerals along with dauphine hands, the ref. 96 is the utter epitome of classical luxury watchmaking, where less is more. Having gone on to become the archetypal dress watch, what the Calatrava lacks in exuberance and flashy details, it makes up for it with a beautifully executed design that is confident in its own worth as a horological masterpiece.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Later Patek Philippe Box
Est. value range
$12,000 – $18,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
31mm
Model
Calatrava
Movement
Manual-wind cal. 12-400
Reference
96A
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
Circa 1940
Condition
Excellent
Material
Stainless steel
Included
Watch and later Patek Philippe box
Dial Color
Silver
THE DIAL
Typically the ref. 96's most understated piece of design, the Calatrava's dial communicates its Bauhaus inspiration through its simple hands and minimalistic subdial, however this example's blend of indices and applied quarter-hour Arabic numerals break from that aesthetic and add a subtle hint of luxury.
THE CONSTRUCTION
While it might seem small by today's standards, the ref. 96's 31mm diameter case is how the Calatrava was originally designed and produced for over 40 years.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The steel case shows surface scratches and small nicks, particularly around where the mid-case meets the case back, while the case back displays surface scratches and a personal engraving. The bezel shows surface scratches. The dial with applied hour markers shows light surface marks along with a couple of scratches near the forty-minute marker at the edge, while the hands show some marks. The dial has been cleaned at some point, and the signature is faded in some areas. It is fitted with a red crocodile strap and a generic steel pin buckle. Please note that the watch ticks at time of cataloging, but timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
Made of stainless steel, this ref. 96 is a rarity within Patek's catalogue, given their preference for using precious metals to craft dress watches such as the Calatrava.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
