Released in 1932 and named after the 12th century Calatrava Knights from Spain and Portugal, the Calatrava ref. 96 was released as a simple Bauhaus-inspired timepiece with a broad appeal that could help resecure Patek Philippe's finances after Jean and Charles Henri Stern bought a controlling stake in the watchmaker earlier in the same year. Born from the dying embers of the dwindling art deco period and its weakening influence on design, the Calatrava features a minimalist aesthetic that utilizes simplicity as its means of establishing intrigue and garnering attention for its immaculately constructed case and dial. Launched as the first Calatrava reference and produced for 41 years until 1973, the ref. 96 found success by leaning into its practical design rather than the exuberance of any complications or a busy design - a clear departure from the Art Deco period's designs. With a simple 18kt yellow gold case that measures 31mm across and an equally understated silver dial with dauphine hands, the ref. 96 is the utter epitome of classical luxury watchmaking, where less is more. Having gone on to become the archetypal dress watch, what the Calatrava lacks in exuberance and flashy details, it makes up for it with a beautifully executed design that is confident in its own worth as a horological masterpiece.

This Ref. 96 has honest age and patina — exactly what makes vintage great. It’s the calatrava that started it all before they were even called calatravas: simple, pure, and historically important.