Introduction
Few watches have had a greater influence on the design of the modern dress watch than the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96. Introduced in 1932, the same year that brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern acquired a controlling interest in the manufacture, it established a design philosophy that continues to define the Calatrava collection today. Drawing on the principles of Bauhaus design, the ref. 96 rejected the decorative excesses of the preceding Art Deco period in favour of clarity, proportion and restraint. Its elegantly balanced case, slender bezel and beautifully organised dial created a remarkably enduring aesthetic, with the reference remaining in production for more than four decades.
Dating to the 1940s, this example is crafted in 18K yellow gold and features a particularly attractive silvered dial with elongated black enamel Arabic numerals and blued steel hands. The contrast between the dark numerals, blue hands and warm gold case gives this configuration a distinctly different character from the more familiar applied-marker versions. Measuring 31mm in diameter, the watch retains the original proportions that made the ref. 96 such an important design, while its manually wound calibre 12-120 represents the traditional watchmaking that underpinned Patek Philippe's reputation during the period. More than ninety years after its introduction, the ref. 96 remains the foundation upon which the entire Calatrava collection was built.
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Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$8,000 – $12,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
31mm
Model
Calatrava
Movement
Manual-winding calibre 12-120
Reference
96J
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
Circa 1940s
Condition
Excellent
Material
18K Yellow Gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Silver
THE DIAL
The silvered dial features distinctive elongated black enamel Arabic numerals, complemented by slender blued steel hands. A subsidiary seconds register at six o'clock completes the traditional layout.
THE CONSTRUCTION
Measuring 31mm in diameter, the 18K yellow gold case embodies the proportions of the original Calatrava design. Its slender bezel, gently tapered lugs and restrained profile place the emphasis firmly on the dial.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K yellow gold case shows surface scratches and light marks, with some softening to the definition of the lugs. A hallmark on the crown side of the case remains legible. The enamel numeral dial has been refinished and shows some spotting and light surface marks. The blued hands remain reasonably clean. It is fitted with a leather strap and gold-coloured pin buckle. It will not be possible to obtain an Extract from the Archive for this watch.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
The ref. 96 is more than simply the first Calatrava; it is one of the defining designs in twentieth-century watchmaking. Its influence can be traced through generations of Patek Philippe dress watches, yet the original remains remarkably compelling.
Justin Gruenberg
Co-founder
