Introduction
Released in 1932 and named after the 12th century Calatrava Knights from Spain and Portugal, the Calatrava ref. 96 was released as a simple Bauhaus-inspired timepiece with a broad appeal that could help resecure Patek Philippe's finances after Jean and Charles Henri Stern bought a controlling stake in the watchmaker earlier in the same year. Born from the dying embers of the dwindling art deco period and its weakening influence on design, the Calatrava features a minimalist aesthetic that utilizes simplicity as its means of establishing intrigue and garnering attention for its immaculately constructed case and dial. Launched as the first Calatrava reference and produced for 41 years until 1973, the ref. 96 found success by leaning into its practical design rather than the exuberance of any complications or a busy design - a clear departure from the Art Deco period's designs. With a simple 18kt yellow gold case that measures 31mm across and a unique tropical brown dial with dauphine hands, this ref. 96 is the utter epitome of classical luxury watchmaking, where less is more. Having gone on to become the archetypal dress watch, what the Calatrava lacks in exuberance and flashy details, it makes up for it with a beautifully executed design that is confident in its own worth as a horological masterpiece.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$8,000 – $12,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
31mm
Model
Calatrava
Movement
Manual-wind cal. 12-120"
Reference
96J
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
Circa 1950s
Condition
Very good
Material
18kt yellow gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Brown (Tropicalized)
THE DIAL
Typically the ref. 96's most understated piece of design, the Calatrava's dial communicates its Bauhaus inspiration through its simple dauphine hands, minimalistic subdial, and subtle vertical brushed finish. However, this example's tropical brown dial steals the show with its deep and even shade of chocolate brown, making it wonderfully special and unique.
THE CONSTRUCTION
While it might seem small by today's standards, the ref. 96's 31mm diameter case is how the Calatrava was originally designed and produced for over 40 years.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall very good condition. The yellow gold case shows scratches and marks, as expected of a watch of this vintage, with more noticeable gouges on the non-crown side where the case has been opened in the past. The case back retains a well-defined 18K stamp, while a still-legible hallmark remains visible on the lug back and case side. The gold case has developed some patina, particularly around the lugs. The dial has aged to a deep tropical tone, with some degradation visible around the applied 12 o’clock marker. The hands remain clean. The crystal shows a number of scuffs and scratches. It is fitted with a well-worn black leather strap and a gold-plated pin buckle.
Our Perspective
Having gone on to become the blueprint of a perfect dress watch, the Calatrava ref. 96's is completely deserving of its incredibly impressive 41-year-long production history.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
