Lot #5304
Patek Philippe Calatrava 96R “Pink on Pink” 18K RG with Extract from the Archives
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Introduction
Few watches have had as profound an influence on the traditional round wristwatch as the Patek Philippe reference 96. Introduced in 1932, shortly after the Stern family took control of the manufacture, the reference established many of the principles that would come to define the Calatrava: restrained proportions, a thin round case and lugs that flow directly from its architecture. Its importance lies in that simplicity, creating a template for the elegant time-only wristwatch that Patek Philippe would continue to refine for generations.
According to the accompanying Extract from the Archives, this example was manufactured in 1944 and sold on June 8 of that year. Its 31mm case is rendered in 18K rose gold and is complemented by a pink dial with applied rose gold hour markers and matching dauphine hands, a particularly attractive “pink on pink” combination. The dial has developed a deep and extensive patina across its surface, giving the watch considerable vintage character. Further interest comes from Portuguese import hallmarks visible on the case back, evidence of the watch's historical journey after leaving Geneva. Together, the rose gold case, pink dial and documented 1944 production make this a characterful example of Patek Philippe's foundational Calatrava reference.
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Grade
V 8
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Extract from the Archives
Est. value range
$12,000 – $18,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
31mm
Model
Calatrava
Movement
Manual-wind Patek Philippe calibre 12-120
Reference
96R
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
1944
Condition
Very good
Material
18K Rose Gold
Included
Extract from the Archives
Dial Color
Pink
THE DIAL
The pink dial is complemented by applied rose gold hour markers and rose gold dauphine hands, creating the desirable “pink on pink” configuration. Its surface has developed a deep and extensive patina over the intervening decades, giving the dial considerable texture and character while retaining the fundamentally restrained layout of the reference 96.
THE CONSTRUCTION
At approximately 31mm, the reference 96 demonstrates the importance of proportion over outright size. Its round 18K rose gold case, slim bezel and integrated lugs established an enduring Calatrava silhouette. Of particular interest on this example are the Portuguese import hallmarks stamped to the case back, adding another historical detail to the watch.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall very good condition. The 18K rose gold case shows softened lug edges, surface scratches, and a couple of more noticeable nicks. The hallmarks on the case back remain mostly legible. The dial has developed a rich patina with some surface spotting. Indexes are a soft, and the Patek Philippe long signature and track have been refreshed at some point. Pearling of the minute markers is imperfect as seen in the images. The hands show some light surface scratches. It is fitted with a brown leather strap and gold-coloured pin buckle. Comes with a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives that mentions rose dial.
Please note: The watch ticks at time of cataloging, but timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
The reference 96 is foundational to Patek Philippe's wristwatch history, but individual examples can have markedly different personalities. Here, the combination of an 18K rose gold case, pink dial and matching rose gold furniture creates the highly attractive “pink on pink” aesthetic, while the dial's deep patina and Portuguese import hallmarks give the watch a particularly strong sense of its eight-decade history.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
