Introduction
When Patek Philippe introduced the Golden Ellipse in 1968, it created one of the most distinctive dress watches of the twentieth century. Inspired by the mathematical principle of the golden ratio, the Ellipse departed from conventional round and rectangular cases in favour of a softly curved, elongated form that balanced geometric precision with understated elegance. Its minimalist design, characterised by an exceptionally slender case, restrained dial and absence of unnecessary ornamentation, reflected a broader movement towards modernism in luxury watchmaking. The Ellipse would become one of Patek Philippe's most recognisable collections, demonstrating that a watch could make a powerful visual statement through proportion alone.
Dating to the 1970s, this ref. 3848/1 is an attractive interpretation of the Ellipse design, combining an 18K yellow gold case with a striking cobalt blue dial. The contrast between the rich blue surface and warm gold case is one of the defining aesthetic combinations of the collection, while the absence of a seconds hand reinforces its elegant simplicity. Measuring approximately 32mm in length and 27mm in width, the oval case is complemented by an integrated 18K yellow gold bracelet with a folding clasp, creating a continuous design that blurs the distinction between wristwatch and jewellery. Powered by a manually wound movement, this example captures the distinctive character of the Golden Ellipse during the 1970s, when Patek Philippe was exploring increasingly expressive interpretations of its traditional dress-watch philosophy.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$20,000 – $30,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
32mm x 27mm
Model
Ellipse
Movement
Manual-winding Patek Philippe movement
Reference
3848/1
Bracelet
Integrated 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe bracele
Year
1970s
Condition
Very Good
Material
18K Yellow Gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Blue
THE DIAL
The cobalt blue sigma dial, denoting solid gold dial fixings, provides a striking contrast to the surrounding yellow gold case, creating one of the most recognisable colour combinations associated with the Ellipse collection.
THE CONSTRUCTION
The 18K yellow gold case is formed as a distinctive oval profile that characterises the Golden Ellipse. The integrated gold bracelet and folding clasp create a continuous, jewellery-like design.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall very good condition. The 18K yellow gold case shows surface scratches and light nicks, as expected of a watch of this vintage. The blue Sigma dial exhibits patches of degradation to the finish across its surface, while the applied gold hour markers and hands remain very clean. The integrated 18K yellow gold bracelet shows surface marks, while the Calatrava Cross emblem on the clasp has largely worn away. The bracelet fits approximately a 6¾” wrist.
Please note: The watch ticks at time of cataloging, but timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.
Our Perspective
The Golden Ellipse is one of Patek Philippe's most enduring exercises in pure design, and the ref. 3848/1 captures the collection's distinctive appeal during the 1970s. Its cobalt blue dial and yellow gold case create a particularly attractive combination, while the integrated bracelet reinforces the watch's elegant, almost jewellery-like character.
Justin Gruenberg
Co-founder
