Lot #5408
Patek Philippe Gilbert Albert 3289/24 Diamond and Ruby Set 18k WG with Extract from the Archives
How do I bid? Start here
Introduction
The 1960s marked one of the most adventurous periods in Patek Philippe's design history. During his tenure as the manufacture's Director of Creation, Geneva designer Gilbert Albert pushed Patek Philippe far beyond conventional watchmaking, drawing inspiration from modern sculpture, abstraction and organic forms to create watches that blurred the boundaries between horology and jewellery. His work from this period remains some of the most distinctive ever produced by the manufacture.
Introduced in 1961 and produced through the late 1960s, the ref. 3289 became a canvas for numerous highly individual executions in yellow gold, white gold and platinum. Offered here is the particularly striking ref. 3289/24 in 18K white gold, combining an integrated sculptural bracelet with a case set with diamonds and rubies. Its restrained dial sits in deliberate contrast to the exuberant gem-set construction surrounding it, resulting in a watch that feels as much like a piece of mid-century jewellery as a traditional Patek Philippe wristwatch.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 9
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Extract from the Archives
Est. value range
$50,000 – $80,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
21mm
Model
Ladies Gem-Set Watch
Movement
Manual-wind cal. 13.5
Reference
3289/24
Bracelet
Integrated 18K white gold bracelet
Year
1967
Condition
Excellent
Material
18K white gold, diamonds, sapphires and rubies
Included
Extract from the Archives
Dial Color
Silver
THE DIAL
The small, understated dial provides a deliberately restrained centre to the elaborate jewellery surrounding it. Its simple baton hour markers and minimalist display allow the diamonds and rubies incorporated into the case to become the dominant visual feature.
THE CONSTRUCTION
Executed in 18K white gold, the ref. 3289/24 combines its compact 21mm watch case with an integrated sculptural bracelet and a striking arrangement of diamonds and rubies. The unconventional construction exemplifies the experimental approach associated with Gilbert Albert's period at Patek Philippe, treating the watch and bracelet as a single piece of jewellery rather than separate components.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall near-mint condition. The 18K white gold case and bracelet remain in near-mint condition, with sharp definition to the engraved sections of the bracelet, along with some minor surface scratches and marks. The clasp shows surface scratches and retains a well-defined Calatrava Cross. All diamonds, rubies, and their settings are in excellent condition. The dial is excellent, and the hands remain very clean. The bracelet fits approximately a 6¾” wrist. Comes with the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives.
Our Perspective
Long before the Nautilus became Patek Philippe's great design icon, Gilbert Albert was already challenging expectations of what a watch from the manufacture could look like. The ref. 3289/24 is a particularly compelling expression of that period, combining white gold with diamonds and vividly coloured sapphires and rubies in a design that sits somewhere between wristwatch, sculpture and fine jewellery. Rarely encountered today, these pieces represent one of the most creative chapters in Patek Philippe's 20th-century history.
John Reardon
Collectability.com
