Introduction
Patek Philippe's shaped watches of the mid-twentieth century represent some of the manufacture's most adventurous design work, and few references capture this spirit quite like the ref. 1593. Introduced in 1944, the model remained in production for more than two decades, its distinctive silhouette earning it the affectionate nickname 'Hour Glass'. Unlike conventional rectangular dress watches, the 1593 features a subtly concave case that narrows through the centre before flaring dramatically towards its extremities. The result is a remarkably sculptural design, combining the elegance of a traditional dress watch with an architectural quality that feels surprisingly contemporary.
Dating to the 1950s, this example is particularly appealing for its 18K rose gold case, a less frequently encountered configuration than the yellow gold version. Measuring approximately 42mm by 25.5mm, its elongated proportions are complemented by a gently curved crystal and a restrained silvered dial with applied gold hour markers and subsidiary seconds at six o'clock. Inside is Patek Philippe's celebrated manually wound calibre 9-90, a rectangular movement developed specifically for shaped watches and used in some of the manufacture's most distinctive creations of the period. Produced in yellow, rose and white gold, as well as platinum, the ref. 1593 demonstrates how Patek Philippe could bring individuality to traditional watchmaking without sacrificing the elegance for which the company was renowned.
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Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$15,000 – $25,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
Approximately 42mm x 25.5mm
Model
Hour Glass
Movement
Manual-winding calibre 9-90
Reference
1593R
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
1950s
Condition
Excellent
Material
18K Rose Gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Silver
THE DIAL
The silvered dial is elegantly restrained, with applied gold hour markers, a subsidiary seconds register at six o'clock and horizontal line through the middle. Its elongated rectangular proportions complement the distinctive case architecture.
THE CONSTRUCTION
The 18K rose gold case measures approximately 42mm by 25.5mm and features the distinctive concave profile that gives the reference its 'Hour Glass' nickname. Narrowing through the centre before flaring towards the lugs, the case combines flowing curves with a strong geometric form.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K rose gold case is well defined, with surface scratches and small marks. The case back shows some rubbing marks, while the hallmarks on the backs of the lugs remain fully legible. The Calatrava Cross-embossed winding crown is in excellent condition. The dial shows some surface marks and areas of degradation around the very outer edge. The applied hour markers show some tarnishing, while the hands remain clean. It is fitted with a leather strap and gold-coloured pin buckle.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
The ref. 1593 is one of those vintage Patek Philippe designs that becomes considerably more interesting the longer you study it. Its unusual case is neither conventionally rectangular nor entirely organic, occupying a fascinating space between traditional watchmaking and sculptural design. The rose gold execution is particularly attractive, lending warmth to the dramatic architecture without overwhelming its elegance.
John Reardon
Collectability.com
