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Lot #5308

Patek Philippe Ladies Gilbert Albert 3289/24J Diamond and Sapphire 18K YG with Extract from the Archives

Patek Philippe Ladies Gilbert Albert 3289/24J Diamond and Sapphire 18K YG with Extract from the Archives Logo

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Introduction

Gilbert Albert's work for Patek Philippe during the late 1950s and 1960s represents one of the manufacture's most adventurous periods of design. Moving decisively away from conventional round cases, Albert approached the wristwatch as a piece of sculpture, experimenting with asymmetry, irregular surfaces and precious stones in compositions that blurred the distinction between watchmaking and jewellery. References such as the 3289 demonstrate just how radical this approach could be, particularly when compared with the restrained Calatravas for which Patek Philippe was already renowned.

This example of the ref. 3289/24J dates to 1968 and is executed in 18K yellow gold and combines its highly sculptural case and integrated bracelet with factory-set diamonds and sapphires. The stones become part of the architecture rather than simply decoration, contrasting with the textured gold surfaces surrounding the small silvered dial. Inside is the manually wound calibre 13.5, allowing the mechanical watch itself to remain remarkably discreet within Albert's jewellery-led design. The watch is accompanied by an Extract from the Archives.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Extract from the Archives

Est. value range

$30,000 – $50,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

Approximately 20.7mm wide

Model

Dress Watch

Movement

Manual-wind Patek Philippe calibre 13.5

Reference

3289/24J

Bracelet

Integrated 18K yellow gold bracelet

Year

1968

Condition

Excellent

Material

18K Yellow Gold, Diamonds and Sapphires

Included

Extract from the Archives

Dial Color

Silvered

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

The small silvered dial sits almost discreetly within the surrounding jewellery composition, allowing Albert's case design to dominate. Its restrained presentation provides a deliberate counterpoint to the irregular gold surfaces and diamond and sapphire setting, reinforcing the sense that the time display forms just one element of the overall design.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

The asymmetric two-part case and integrated bracelet are fashioned from 18K yellow gold, with diamonds and sapphires incorporated into the sculptural composition. The irregular surfaces, angular forms and unconventional stone placement are characteristic of Gilbert Albert's experimental approach to jewellery and watch design during his period with Patek Philippe.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K yellow gold case shows surface scratches and nicks, as expected of a watch of this vintage. The Calatrava Cross-embossed winding crown is in excellent condition. All hand-engraved sections of the case and bracelet remain well defined, and all diamonds and sapphires and their settings are in excellent condition. The dial shows spotting across the surface. The 18K yellow gold bracelet shows negligible play between the links and fits approximately a 6½” wrist. The watch comes with a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives.

Our Perspective

Gilbert Albert's Patek Philippe designs occupy a world of their own, combining serious watchmaking with the freedom of mid-century jewellery design. This yellow gold ref. 3289/24J is particularly striking for the contrast created by its diamonds and sapphires, which appear integrated into the architecture rather than applied as conventional embellishment. It is an expressive example of a period when Patek Philippe was prepared to explore forms far removed from its traditional watchmaking vocabulary.

John Reardon

John Reardon

Collectability.com