Introduction
Few post-war Patek Philippe watches capture the experimental spirit of the 1950s quite like the ref. 2554. The reference began in 1950 with the comparatively conventional rectangular 2554-1, before evolving into the dramatic concave-sided form now nicknamed the “Manta Ray”. The distinctive “Manta Ray” interpretation of Patek Philippe’s Reference 2554 is attributed to Gilbert Albert, who headed the manufacture’s design department during this period. Its sculptural case abandoned traditional dress-watch geometry in favour of sweeping flanks and sharply defined extremities, with numerous iterations following through the decade featuring subtle variations in case design, finishing and precious metals.
This example is executed in 18K yellow gold, giving the extraordinary architecture a warmer and more classical character. The two-part shaped case was manufactured by Markowski, identified by Geneva key number 8, while the crown is neatly recessed into the case side so as not to interrupt its flowing profile. Inside is Patek Philippe's manually wound rectangular calibre 9-90, a movement particularly well suited to the unusual proportions of the case. The enduring importance of the design was demonstrated decades later when Patek Philippe revisited its distinctive silhouette for the ref. 5100 “10 Days”, launched as part of the manufacture's millennium collection in 2000.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$10,000 – $20,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
40mm x 28.5mm
Model
“Manta Ray”
Movement
Manual-wind Patek Philippe calibre 9-90
Reference
2554
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
Circa 1950s
Condition
Very good
Material
18K Yellow Gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Silver
THE DIAL
The silver dial provides a deliberately restrained counterpoint to the extraordinary case architecture. Applied gold baton hour markers and matching hands emphasise the elongated proportions, while the curved crystal follows the shape of the watch and reinforces the flowing profile of the Manta Ray design.
THE CONSTRUCTION
The two-part 18K yellow gold case was produced by specialist Geneva casemaker Markowski, identified by key number 8. Its defining feature is the dramatic combination of concave sides and flared extremities that inspired the “Manta Ray” nickname, whose distinctive design is attributed to Gilbert Albert.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall very good condition. The 18K yellow gold case shows a number of surface scratches and more noticeable nicks throughout, as expected of a watch of this vintage. The upper right lug is slightly bent inwards. There are UK hallmarks on the crown side of the case remain legible. The case back shows a couple of deep scratches. The dial shows some light scratches and a small ding near the 5 o’clock hour marker. It is fitted with a brown leather strap and gold-coloured pin buckle.
Please note: The watch ticks at time of cataloging, but timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
The ref. 2554 demonstrates just how adventurous Patek Philippe could be during the post-war period. The sculptural Manta Ray design, attributed to Gilbert Albert, transformed a simple time-only watch into a remarkable piece of mid-century design, while Markowski's specialised casework and the calibre 9-90 provided the craftsmanship beneath it.
Justin Gruenberg
Co-founder
