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Lot #1716

Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800/1J 18k YG

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Introduction

Released in 1976 as Patek Philippe's response to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, an avant-garde luxury stainless steel sports watch borne from AP's necessity to survive the Quartz Crisis, the Nautilus was Patek Philippe's attempt to go head to head with AP's increasingly popular sports watch. Designed by Gerald Genta, the same man that had created the Royal Oak, the Nautilus was inspired by a porthole and thus features a rounded-over octagonal bezel and hinge-like protrusions on either side of its case. Featuring its signature horizontally embossed dial and iconic integrated bracelet, the Nautilus has become the most sought-after watch in the market today as collectors clamor over examples thanks to its iconic design, extreme exclusivity, and impeccable craftsmanship.

Long established as one of the most iconic watches of all time, it is often forgotten that the Patek Philippe Nautilus did not receive a positive reaction upon its release on account of its large 42mm case. Knowing the size was turning away most potential customers, Patek Philippe decided to debut a smaller variant with a 37.5mm case - the ref. 3800 that we have here. Released five years after the original Nautilus in 1981, the ref. 3800 allowed Patek's customers to try the Nautilus out, see it in the wild, and grow accustomed to its somewhat alien design at the time. Upon its success of the ref. 3800, the Nautilus began to pick up sales across its entire collection as collectors began to appreciate the Nautilus' design in the way they had started to appreciate the Royal Oak's a few years prior. While the original Nautilus ref. 3700 is indeed where the collection began, the ref. 3800 can lay claim as the collection's saviour as there was no guarantee that Patek's higher-ups would keep the marginally performing collection around should the tides not have turned around as they did. However you view it, the Nautilus collection would be far removed from what it is today if it wasn't for this now iconic variant.

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Grade

M 9

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$40,000 – $60,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

37.5mm

Model

Nautilus

Movement

Automatic cal. 335 S C

Reference

3800J

Bracelet

18kt yellow gold integrated bracelet

Year

Circa 1980s

Condition

Near-Mint

Material

18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

White

THE DIAL

With its bright white dial featuring horizontally embossed stripes and beautifully contrasting yellow gold applied hour markers and hands, this example's aesthetic is that of true luxury. Furthermore, this example's lume has aged to a beautiful shade of cream that almost perfectly matches its 18kt yellow gold hands.

THE CONSTRUCTION

Launched with the intention to bring the Nautilus' design to a wider audience, the ref. 3800J was a more modestly-sized piece with a 37.5mm case. Additionally, the ref. 3800J was the first 18kt yellow gold Nautilus, which introduced Patek's famously luxurious touch to the previously stainless steel model.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in near mint condition. Watch has a crisp case with sharp edges and a brushed bezel with nice definition and no scratches. Watch likely benefitted from a polish at its previous service. Although it does not come with any service papers, the caseback sticker would indicate that it was serviced recently at the Patek Philippe service center. The white dial is near-mint with no visible flaws. The bracelet has 25 graduated links, 10 of which are removable. There is very little stretch evident.

Our Perspective

I have always been a massive fan of the ref. 3800 Nautilus. The size and style are extremely sophisticated, and I've always felt that this size wears better than its 42mm big brother, the ref. 3700.

Eric Ku

Co-founder