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Lot #1780

Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800/1JA Two-Tone Champagne Dial

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Introduction

Released in 1976 as Patek Philippe's response to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, an avant-garde luxury stainless steel sports watch borne from AP's necessity to survive the Quartz Crisis, the Nautilus was Patek Philippe's attempt to go head to head with AP's increasingly popular sports watch. Designed by Gerald Genta, the same man that had created the Royal Oak, the Nautilus was inspired by a porthole and thus features a rounded-over octagonal bezel and hinge-like protrusions on either side of its case. Featuring its signature horizontally embossed dial and iconic integrated bracelet, the Nautilus has become the most sought-after watch in the market today as collectors clamor over examples thanks to its iconic design, extreme exclusivity, and impeccable craftsmanship.

Long established as one of the most iconic watches of all time, it is often forgotten that the Patek Philippe Nautilus did not receive a positive reaction upon its release on account of its large 42mm case. Knowing the size was turning away most potential customers, Patek Philippe decided to debut a smaller variant with a 37.5mm case - the ref. 3800 that we have here. Released five years after the original Nautilus in 1981, the ref. 3800 allowed Patek's customers to try the Nautilus out, see it in the wild, and grow accustomed to its somewhat alien design at the time. Upon its success of the ref. 3800, the Nautilus began to pick up sales across its entire collection as collectors began to appreciate the Nautilus' design in the way they had started to appreciate the Royal Oak's a few years prior. While the original Nautilus ref. 3700 is indeed where the collection began, the ref. 3800 can lay claim as the collection's savior as there was no guarantee that Patek's higher-ups would keep the marginally performing collection around should the tides not have turned around as they did. However you view it, the Nautilus collection would be far removed from what it is today if it wasn't for this now iconic variant.

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Grade

M 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$20,000 – $30,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

37.5mm

Model

Nautilus

Movement

Automatic cal. 335 S C

Reference

3800/1JA

Bracelet

18kt yellow gold and stainless steel integrated bracelet

Year

Circa early 1990s

Condition

Very good

Material

18kt yellow gold and stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Champagne

THE DIAL

With its champagne golden dial featuring horizontally embossed stripes and beautifully aged 18kt yellow gold applied hour markers and hands, this example's dial's all-gold monotone aesthetic is a true delight that perfectly matches its two-tone construction.

THE CONSTRUCTION

Launched with the intention to bring the Nautilus' design to a wider audience, the ref. 3800 was a more modestly-sized piece with a 37.5mm case that better fit the tastes of the time.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall very good condition. Gold bezel has scratches and wear as visible in images. Dial is in near-mint condition with no visible surface wear, and nicely aged luminous. Midcase has minor wear, as does the bracelet. It has 20 full and 2 half links, 6 of which are removable. There is little stretch.

Our Perspective

I have always been a massive fan of the ref. 3800 Nautilus. The size and style are extremely sophisticated, and I've always felt that this size wears better than its 42mm big brother, the ref. 3700.

Eric Ku

Co-founder