The Nautilus arrived in 1976 as Patek Philippe’s radical interpretation of the emerging luxury sports watch, with Gérald Genta’s porthole-inspired case, integrated bracelet and horizontally embossed dial creating a design unlike anything traditionally associated with the manufacture. Five years later, Patek Philippe expanded the collection with the ref. 3800, reducing the proportions of the original ref. 3700 while adding a central seconds hand. At 37.5mm, it offered a more compact expression of Genta’s design and would remain an important part of the Nautilus family for more than two decades.

The ref. 3800 was produced in numerous configurations, and the 3800/1JA offered here combines stainless steel with 18K yellow gold for a distinctly period two-tone execution. Its champagne dial continues that warmth across the watch, with applied yellow gold hour markers and hands set against the familiar horizontal embossing. Particularly noteworthy is the sigma designation flanking “SWISS” at six o’clock, indicating the use of precious metal for the dial furniture, while a white date disc with black numerals provides a crisp contrast at three.