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Lot #2095

Patek Philippe Neptune 5080/1 Salmon Dial Stainless Steel

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Introduction

Released in 1996 as an evolution within Patek Philippe's sports watch offerings alongside the Aquanaut, the Patek Philippe Neptune was designed with the intention of being ideal for sportswear while also being supremely elegant. Merging some classic elements of a stereotypical sports watch design such as crown guards, a heavily-lumed handset and a thick engine-turned bezel and some more delicate flourishes such as diamonds and Roman numeral hour markers punctuating its dial (depending on the variant), the Neptune ultimately failed to meet Patek's commercial expectations due to its inability to penetrate a particular market and was ultimately discontinued in 2005. However, this ref. 5080/1A still lives on as a wonderful celebration of Patek's goal to create a sports infused dress watch, with its unique stainless steel construction, distinctive bracelet and monotone salmon dial combining to create a stunningly luxurious aesthetic that speaks to modern tastes as we seek increasingly luxurious sports watch options. Perhaps the Neptune was just ahead of time, and should it have been released today it would fare much better. One thing’s for sure, we love its unique design and special place with Patek’s historical catalog.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

M 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch and Hang Tag

Est. value range

$10,000 – $15,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

36mm

Model

Neptune

Movement

Automatic

Reference

5080/1A

Bracelet

Stainless steel integrated bracelet

Year

Circa 2000

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch and hang tag

Dial Color

Salmon

THE DIAL

Boasting a salmon dial with applied Roman numerals with generous lume, the Neptune speaks to both the utility required of a sports watch and the dressier nature of Patek's more classical offerings.

THE CONSTRUCTION

While measuring 36mm in diameter, the Naptune's intricate integrated bracelet allows it to wear slightly larger than one might expect and thus making it a great watch to wear daily.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in excellent overall condition. Case in well preserved condition with no major marks or scratches. Minor scratches visible on the solid caseback. Dial near-mint with no visible marks or damage. Bracelet has 19 links, 5 of which are removable. There is little stretch.

Our Perspective

An intriguing proposition considering just how far ahead of the curve it would turn out that Patek were at the time, the Neptune demonstrates that while Patek might typically be conservative with their aesthetic that when they branch out from their normal design language they can create watches that speak to tastes far into the future, just like the Aquanaut, Nautilus and now Neptune have proven.

Eric Ku

Co-founder