Introduction
Released in 1996 as an evolution within Patek Philippe's sports watch offerings alongside the Aquanaut, the Patek Philippe Neptune was designed with the intention of being ideal for sportswear while also being supremely elegant. Merging some classic elements of a stereotypical sports watch design such as crown guards, a heavily-lumed handset and a thick engine-turned bezel and some more delicate flourishes such as diamonds and Roman numeral hour markers punctuating its dial (depending on the variant), the Neptune ultimately failed to meet Patek's commercial expectations due to its inability to penetrate a particular market and was ultimately discontinued in 2005. However, this ref. 5080/1A still lives on as a wonderful celebration of Patek's goal to create a sports infused dress watch, with its unique stainless steel construction, distinctive bracelet and monotone salmon dial combining to create a stunningly luxurious aesthetic that speaks to modern tastes as we seek increasingly luxurious sports watch options. Perhaps the Neptune was just ahead of time, and should it have been released today it would fare much better. One thing’s for sure, we love its unique design and special place with Patek’s historical catalog.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
M 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch and Hang Tag
Est. value range
$10,000 – $15,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
36mm
Model
Neptune
Movement
Automatic
Reference
5080/1A
Bracelet
Stainless steel integrated bracelet
Year
Circa 2000
Condition
Excellent
Material
Stainless steel
Included
Watch and hang tag
Dial Color
Salmon

THE DIAL
Boasting a salmon dial with applied Roman numerals with generous lume, the Neptune speaks to both the utility required of a sports watch and the dressier nature of Patek's more classical offerings.

THE CONSTRUCTION
While measuring 36mm in diameter, the Naptune's intricate integrated bracelet allows it to wear slightly larger than one might expect and thus making it a great watch to wear daily.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in excellent overall condition. Case in well preserved condition with no major marks or scratches. Minor scratches visible on the solid caseback. Dial near-mint with no visible marks or damage. Bracelet has 19 links, 5 of which are removable. There is little stretch.
Our Perspective
An intriguing proposition considering just how far ahead of the curve it would turn out that Patek were at the time, the Neptune demonstrates that while Patek might typically be conservative with their aesthetic that when they branch out from their normal design language they can create watches that speak to tastes far into the future, just like the Aquanaut, Nautilus and now Neptune have proven.













