Released in the mid-80s when perpetual calendar timepieces were rare, the Patek Philippe ref. 3940 would quickly become the blueprint for perpetual calendar watches following in its footsteps looking to emulate its aesthetic design and, or, success. With its distinctively classical 36mm case diameter, the ref. 3940 appeals to the pre-modern days when 36mm was seen as a large watch, and technical innovations weren’t as intricate as they are today. One of the most important timepieces within Patek’s modern history, the ref. 3940’s inoffensive construction, beautiful dial, and immaculate craftsmanship all combine to create a watch that collectors still clamor to own. But with that aside, its position as the first serially produced perpetual calendar timepiece signifies that it was the watch to begin the trend for the hyper-complex that we are still; experiencing to this day. Released at the height of the Quartz Crisis, the ref. 3940 even contributed to growing the gap between traditional Swiss artisanal craftsmanship and cheap machine-made quartz watches, ultimately one of the industry’s saving graces as it helped reestablish the Swiss' reputation as the original occupants within the industry.

The 3940J is one of the most elegant perpetual calendars Patek Philippe ever made. I love how slim and refined it is on the wrist, with the ultra-thin caliber 240Q quietly doing all the work. Understated, easy to wear, and still a relative value compared to the more modern perpetuals.