Tasked with creating the successor to the iconic ref. 2499, Philippe Stern created the legendary Patek Philippe ref. 3970, which has now gone on to become one of Patek Philippe's most sought-after vintage references. Released in 1986, a year after the ref. 2499 was discontinued, the ref. 3970 includes some design choices that are indicative of the period during which it was created. In the '80s, dress watches were getting smaller, and as such, Stern decided to take the ref. 2499's 37.5mm case and reduce it to 36mm for the ref. 3970. This served to broaden the piece's appeal and give it a classier aesthetic. The ref. 3970’s construction also builds upon this classy design with a concave bezel and downturned fluted lugs that help to slim the case's profile on the wrist and maintain its elegant look and feel. Equipped with the same movement that was in the ref. 2499, the Lemania cal. 2310, Patek Philippe’s artisans have heavily modified it to be just as finely finished as any other Patek movement. Carrying a lot of history itself, the Lemania cal. 2310 is often regarded as one of the most legendary movements to have ever existed, with its inception dating back to a joint project between Lemania and Omega in the 40's. With its visual overhaul, Patek decided to rebrand their refinished Lemania 2310 as the cal. CH 27-70, a movement that Patek collectors hold in particularly high regard, much like the ref. 3970 that it is found within.

The second-series 3970EJ holds a special place: it carries forward the legendary lineage of the 2499, but in a refined, modernized form. I’m drawn to its feuille hands, screw-down caseback, and elegant proportions. With full set provenance and that rarer Italian-calendar layout, it wears like a bridge between vintage and modern. It’s a perpetual calendar chronograph that commands respect without needing to shout.