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Lot #4624

Patek Philippe Screwback Calatrava 3520 18k YG Retailed by Tiffany & Co.

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Introduction

The Calatrava has long been heralded as one of watchmaking’s most iconic watches. First produced in 1932 and now over 90 years old, it has gone through several changes over the decades. Perhaps one of the most surprising of those changes was in 1965 when Patek launched the ref. 3520 that we have here. Heralded as the thinnest waterproof watch, the ref. 3520 features a screw-down caseback with caseback tool indents that reveal its rather innocuous secret. Produced for almost 25 years, the ref. 3520 saw two variants across four metals, yellow, pink, white gold, and platinum. The first series ref. 3520, which is what we have here, was fitted with the cal. 175 movement, which was based on a movement design by F. Piguet. In 1977, Patek Philippe began using the Geneva-sealed cal. 177 movement in the second series of ref. 3520 watches. In 1968, Patek Philippe introduced the ref. 3520D as a braceleted version of the ref. 3520. This model continued to be produced for an extremely long time, until it was finally discontinued in 2008. Despite its age, the ref. 3520 remains a highly sought-after watch among collectors and enthusiasts. Its unique design and technical excellence make it a true classic in the world of horology, and a rather interesting reference from within the iconic Calatrava family.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Extract of the Archives

Est. value range

$12,000 – $18,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

32mm

Model

Calatrava

Movement

Manual-wind cal. 175

Reference

3520

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

1969

Condition

Excellent

Material

18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch and Extract from the Archives

Dial Color

Silver

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Boasting a darkened silver dial with applied 18kt yellow gold indices, the dial of this ref. 3520 is wonderfully classical in its execution. Featuring the co-signature of Patek's most-esteemed retailer, Tiffany & Co., this example is a collector's delight.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

While the Calatrava is indeed a dress watch, Patek intended for the ref. 3520 to be the world's thinnest waterproof watch, and so it features a screw-down caseback with six indents for a caseback tool.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The yellow gold case remains well defined, with light surface scratches across the surface and a crisp hallmark visible on the case side. The case back shows light wear around the edges of the tool slots and retains a well-defined personal engraving. The Calatrava cross–embossed winding crown remains excellent. The double-signed Tiffany & Co. dial shows light spotting across the surface, while the hands remain very clean. It is fitted with a brown crocodile strap and a gold-plated Wenger-style pin buckle. Comes with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.

Our Perspective

Heralded as the "flattest waterproof watch in the word" upon its release, the 3520 is a smartly designed vintage Calatrava that straddles the line between the past and modernity.

Eric Ku

Co-founder