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Lot #5275

Piaget Protocole Diamond-Set 84155 Sodalite Dial 18K WG

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Introduction

Piaget's identity is inseparable from the idea of treating a watch as jewellery. During the second half of the twentieth century, the manufacture became particularly adept at combining ultra-thin movements, precious-metal bracelet construction, ornamental stone dials and gem setting into watches where the boundary between horology and jewellery almost disappears. The rectangular Protocole provided an ideal canvas for this approach, its disciplined geometry allowing Piaget to experiment with colour, texture and increasingly elaborate precious-metal executions.

This 1990s example is particularly striking, combining an 18K white gold case and ibracelet with a sodalite stone dial and extensive diamond setting. Rather than conventional hour markers, diamonds form bold geometric indexes around the dial, complemented by a double row of brilliant-cut diamonds surrounding the bezel. The integrated white gold bracelet is equally distinctive, alternating polished outer elements with finely ribbed central links to continue the architectural character of the case. The result is quintessential Piaget.

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Grade

M 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Box, warranty card, booklets, document holder and service papers

Est. value range

$10,000 – $15,000

The Details

Brand

Piaget

Dimensions

28x25mm

Model

Protocole

Movement

Quartz

Reference

84155

Bracelet

18K white gold bracelet

Year

1999

Condition

Excellent

Material

18K White Gold

Included

Box, warranty card, booklets, document holder and service papers

Dial Color

Bue sodalite

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

The mottled blue sodalite stone dial provides a rich, organic backdrop to the otherwise geometric design. Diamond-set indexes form bold angular markers around its perimeter, while polished dauphine-style hands keep the time display deliberately simple. The combination of natural-looking stone and diamonds is characteristic of Piaget's jewellery-led approach to watchmaking.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

The rectangular 18K white gold case is surrounded by a double row of brilliant-cut diamonds and secured by four screws on the case back. Its integrated 18K white gold bracelet combines broad polished links with finely ribbed central sections, visually extending the geometric architecture of the Protocole across the wrist.

THE MOVEMENT

THE MOVEMENT

The Protocole is powered by a jewelled Piaget quartz movement. While electronic rather than mechanical, the movement is entirely consistent with Piaget's approach to precious-metal and jewellery watches during the period, allowing the case to remain compact while placing the emphasis firmly on design, materials and craftsmanship.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K white gold case shows surface scratches and small marks to the case edges. The case back retains crisp engravings and hallmarks, with some wear to the screw heads. The bezel-set diamonds are all in excellent condition, with the settings remaining excellent. The sodalite dial and hands are in near-mint condition, with no cracks visible to the dial, and all dial-set diamonds are in excellent condition. The 18K white gold bracelet shows surface scratches and small nicks. The bracelet is fitted with 23 links, 7 of which are removable, and fits approximately a 7½” wrist. Comes with inner and outer boxes, warranty card, booklets, document holder, and 2024 service papers.

Our Perspective

This is Piaget operating as both watchmaker and jeweller. The disciplined rectangular Protocole case provides the structure, but the blue stone dial, graphic diamond setting and beautifully constructed white gold bracelet transform it into something much closer to a piece of wearable jewellery.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder