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Lot #5131

Rolex Chronograph 6238 Pre-Daytona Retailed by Cartier

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Introduction

Long before the Daytona became Rolex's most celebrated chronograph, there was the ref. 6238. Produced between 1962 and 1968, the reference marked the final evolution of Rolex's pre-Daytona chronographs, combining the clean aesthetics of earlier models with the technical foundations that would directly lead to the launch of the Cosmograph Daytona in 1963. With its smooth steel bezel, restrained silver dial and manually wound Valjoux-based movement, the ref. 6238 has become one of the most important transitional references in Rolex history, offering collectors the final chapter before one of watchmaking's greatest icons was born.

Offered here is an exceptionally rare example dating to circa 1963 featuring one of the most coveted attributes in vintage Rolex collecting: a double-signed Cartier dial. Beneath the Rolex Chronograph signature sits the prestigious Cartier name, identifying the watch as one of the very small number retailed through Cartier NY. Further enhancing its desirability, the watch retains the original Cartier inventory number and date of sale stamped on the rear of one lug, a remarkable detail that directly links it to the famed retailer. Together, these rare retailer signatures elevate an already important reference into an exceptionally collectible example of vintage Rolex history.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$100,000 – $150,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

36mm

Model

Chronograph Pre-Daytona

Movement

Manual-wind Rolex calibre 722

Reference

6238

Bracelet

Steel Jubilee bracelet

Year

Circa 1969

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Silver Cartier double-signed dial

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

The silver dial on this ref. 6238, bearing the coveted Cartier signature printed beneath the Rolex Chronograph text, makes this among the rarest configurations found. Its recessed engine-turned registers, applied baton hour markers and restrained typography perfectly capture the understated elegance of the pre-Daytona era, while the retailer signature transforms the watch into an exceptionally desirable example for collectors of both Rolex and Cartier.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

The 36mm Oyster case retains the clean proportions that distinguish the ref. 6238 from the Daytona that followed, with its smooth polished bezel offering a more restrained aesthetic than the tachymeter bezels that would define later references. Particularly noteworthy is the original Cartier inventory number engraved to the rear of one lug, an extremely rare retailer hallmark that further confirms the watch's provenance and originality.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The steel case shows surface scratches and light nicks, with signs of a previous polish. The rear of one lug bears a Cartier inventory stamp and date of sale of 8/70. The case back has a few light surface marks. The dial is excellent, with crisp printing, including the Cartier signature, and only a few light surface marks. A couple of the lume plots are damaged. The hands show light surface scratches and discolouration to the luminous material. It is fitted with a steel Jubilee bracelet showing light surface scuffs, a couple of scratches to the clasp, and light play between the links. The bracelet is fitted with 22 links, 2 of which are removable, and fits approximately a 7¼” wrist.

Our Perspective

The ref. 6238 is already one of the most historically significant Rolex chronographs ever produced, bridging the gap between the early Oyster chronographs and the legendary Daytona. Add an original Cartier double-signed dial and matching Cartier inventory engraving, and the result is a watch that sits among the most desirable retailer-signed Rolex chronographs. For collectors seeking rarity, provenance and historical importance in equal measure, few pre-Daytonas can rival this remarkable example.

Eric Ku

Co-founder