Introduction
Initially launched in 1953, the Rolex Turn-O-Graph's release sparked an exciting turning point in the brand’s rich horological history. Considered Rolex's first serially produced tool watch, the Turn-O-Graph was iconic for its eponymous feature; its bidirectional rotatable bezel. Armed with such a useful function, the Turn-O-Graph was designed to measure and record time much like a chronograph. Marketed to international business travellers, the Turn-O-Graph was presented as a tool to perform quick calculations due to its bezel. As such, the Turn-O-Graph was chosen by the United States Air Force’s aerobic squadron, the Thunderbirds, to aid in their pilots' navigational calculations. Recognizing the opportunity, Rolex marketed the Turn-O-Graph as the "Thunderbird" in the North American market. As sales for the Turn-O-Graph began to decline following the Submariner and GMT-Master’s launches due to their similar design and heightened utility, the Turn-O-Graph name only remained in use until the early 1960s before it was discontinued. As such, original Turn-O-Graph references have become increasingly sought-after thanks to their brief yet meaningful impact on Rolex’s evolution as a watchmaker. Offered here we have the Thunderbird ref. 1625, the last original Turn-O-Graph model to be given Thunderbird moniker by Rolex. Produced from 1959 until 1977, the ref. 1625 marked the bulk of Turn-O-Graph’s history as we know it thanks to its long production run. Offered in a selection of metals from stainless steel with just an 18kt white gold bezel, stainless steel, 18kt yellow goldand even two-tone like we have it here, the ref. 1625’s engine-turned rotating bezel and Jubilee bracelet combine to create an alluring timepiece that we can’t help but fawn over.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$10,000 – $15,000
The Details
Brand
Rolex
Dimensions
36mm
Model
Datejust Turn-O-Graph "Thunderbird"
Movement
Automatic cal. 1570
Reference
1625
Bracelet
Stainless steel and 14kt yellow gold Jubilee bracelet
Year
1975
Condition
Excellent
Material
Stainless steel and 14k YG
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Silver
THE DIAL
Featuring a beautiful silver dial with equally beautiful gold hour markers and hands, the ref. 1625 that we have here is an intensely elegant timepiece that extends beyond its design as a tool watch and into the realm of pure luxury. Offered as an extremely rare example of the ref. 1625, this example features a co-signed dial, with it being signed by Cartier, a sign that it was originally retailed by the French Maison, the mark of a true rarity.
THE CONSTRUCTION
Boasting a two-tone stainless steel and 14kt yellow gold construction and an elegant Jubilee bracelet, the Turn-O-Graph merges its functional design influence with Rolex's desire to create luxury timepieces that exist beyond their original use-case.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
The watch is in overall excellent condition. The steel case has some scratches and small marks, as expected of a watch of this vintage. There is a legible Cartier stock number on the rear of the lower right lug. The case back has some light scratches and marks. The yellow gold bezel shows gentle wear on the edges while the insert remains very crisp. The yellow gold winding crown is well defined. The silver dial has some light surface scratches and features the Cartier signature above the SCOC text, which is in excellent condition. There are a number of scuffs on the acrylic crystal. The watch is fitted with a steel and gold folded-link Jubilee bracelet with scratches, significant play between the links, and some wear to the gold coronet on the steel clasp. It is fitted with 20 links and fits approximately a 7 1/4” wrist.
Our Perspective
An iconic watch that is rich with history off the back of its genuine impact on Rolex's evolution as a watchmaker, the ref. 1625 Thunderbird is the unsung hero of Rolex's historical tool-watch offering on account of it being the basis for models like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and more. Bearing Cartier's famed signature at 6 o'clock, this example is just about as special as it gets for the Thunderbird.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
