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Lot #4423

Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph 1625 Two-Tone Retailed by Tiffany & Co.

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Introduction

Initially launched in 1953, the Rolex Turn-O-Graph's release sparked an exciting turning point in the brand’s rich horological history. Considered Rolex's first serially produced tool watch, the Turn-O-Graph was iconic for its eponymous feature; its bidirectional rotatable bezel. Armed with such a useful function, the Turn-O-Graph was designed to measure and record time much like a chronograph. Marketed to international business travellers, the Turn-O-Graph was presented as a tool to perform quick calculations due to its bezel. As such, the Turn-O-Graph was chosen by the United States Air Force’s aerobic squadron, the Thunderbirds, to aid in their pilots' navigational calculations. Recognizing the opportunity, Rolex marketed the Turn-O-Graph as the "Thunderbird" in the North American market. As sales for the Turn-O-Graph began to decline following the Submariner and GMT-Master’s launches due to their similar design and heightened utility, the Turn-O-Graph name only remained in use until the early 1960s before it was discontinued. As such, original Turn-O-Graph references have become increasingly sought-after thanks to their brief yet meaningful impact on Rolex’s evolution as a watchmaker. Offered here we have the Thunderbird ref. 1625, the last original Turn-O-Graph model to be given Thunderbird moniker by Rolex. Produced from 1959 until 1977, the ref. 1625 marked the bulk of Turn-O-Graph’s history as we know it thanks to its long production run. Offered in a selection of metals from stainless steel with just an 18kt white gold bezel, full 18kt yellow gold, and even two-tone, as we have it here, the ref. 1625’s engine-turned rotating bezel and Jubilee bracelet combine to create an alluring timepiece that we can’t help but fawn over. In addition, this example's dial is co-signed by Tiffany & Co., making it even rarer and more desirable.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch only

Est. value range

$6,000 – $10,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

36mm

Model

Datejust Turn-O-Graph "Thunderbird"

Movement

Automatic cal. 1570

Reference

1625

Bracelet

Stainless steel and 18kt yellow gold Jubilee bracelet

Year

1972

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel and 18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Champagne

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Featuring a beautiful champagne dial with equally beautiful gold hour markers and hands, the ref. 1625 that we have here is an intensely elegant timepiece that extends beyond its design as a tool watch and into the realm of pure luxury. In addition, its display is also co-signed by Tiffany & Co., the famed American watch and jewelry retailer.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Boasting a two-tone stainless steel and 18kt yellow gold construction and an elegant Jubilee bracelet, the Turn-O-Graph merges its functional design influence with Rolex's desire to create luxury timepieces that exist beyond their original use-case.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The steel case has some scratches and small nicks, as expected of a watch of this vintage, and shows signs of a previous polish. There is minor loss of metal in the inner corner of the edges from end piece wear. The yellow gold bezel is well defined and the gold insert has gentle wear around the edges. The champagne pie-pan dial is excellent, with crisp text including the additional Tiffany & Co. signature, though some lume plots are damaged. The hands have developed a pleasing patina to the gold. The watch is fitted with a steel and gold Jubilee bracelet with some surface marks and light play and notching between the links. It has 17 links, with 1 additional link included, and fits approximately a 7 1/4” wrist.

Our Perspective

An iconic watch that is rich with history, due to the genuine impact it has had on Rolex's evolution as a watchmaker, the ref. 1625 Thunderbird is the unsung hero of Rolex's historical tool-watch offering, on account of it being the basis for models like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and more.

Eric Ku

Co-founder