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Lot #5229

Rolex Day-Date 18248 Bark Finish Tiger’s Eye Dial 18K YG Box and Papers

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Introduction

Introduced in 1956, the Day-Date quickly established itself at the top of the Rolex catalogue, combining the day written in full with the date in a watch produced exclusively in precious metals. Over the decades, Rolex used the model as a canvas for some of its most unusual decorative treatments, from gem-set configurations to hardstone and organic dials. Among the most distinctive were the so-called bark-finished watches, whose bezels and President bracelet centre links were engraved with an irregular texture inspired by tree bark.

Dating to 1988, this ref. 18248 combines that wonderfully idiosyncratic bark finish with one of the great Rolex stone dials: Tiger’s Eye. A member of the quartz family, Tiger’s Eye is prized for its naturally occurring bands of gold, amber and deep brown, creating a shimmering effect that changes with the light. No two pieces of stone are identical, making every dial inherently unique, while their fragility makes particularly well-preserved examples increasingly difficult to find. Combined with the richly textured 18K yellow gold case and President bracelet, it makes for one of the most characterful executions of the classic 36mm Day-Date.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

M 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Box, papers, booklets, hangtag and cloth

Est. value range

$30,000 – $40,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

36mm

Model

Day-Date

Movement

Automatic Rolex calibre 3155

Reference

18248

Bracelet

18K yellow gold President bracelet with bark finish

Year

1988

Condition

Excellent

Material

18K Yellow Gold

Included

Box, papers, booklets, hangtag and cloth

Dial Color

Tiger’s Eye

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

Undoubtedly the star of this ref. 18248 is its remarkable Tiger’s Eye dial. Cut from natural stone, its bands of golden brown, amber and darker veining produce the characteristic chatoyant effect for which the material is prized. The absence of conventional hour markers leaves the stone largely uninterrupted, allowing its naturally occurring pattern to dominate the watch.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

The 36mm case and President bracelet are constructed entirely from 18K yellow gold, with the bezel and bracelet centre links receiving Rolex’s distinctive bark finish. Created through irregular engraved texturing, the treatment gives the gold an almost organic appearance and provides a particularly appropriate frame for the natural Tiger’s Eye dial.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K yellow gold case shows surface scratches and small nicks, with some oxidation around the winding crown on the case side. All hallmarks remain crisp. The bark finish on the bezel is in excellent condition. The tiger’s eye dial is in near-mint condition, with crisp printing and no cracks. The hands show some patches of light patina. The 18K yellow gold President bracelet with concealed clasp shows light surface marks to the outer polished links, while the centre links retain an excellent bark finish. The bracelet is fitted with 22 links, 3 of which are removable, and fits approximately a 7¼” wrist. Comes with box, US-style typed papers (That mentions dial type "9T", which is Tigers Eye), two booklets, cloth and COSC hangtag.

Our Perspective

Stone-dial Day-Dates occupy a special place within vintage Rolex collecting, and Tiger’s Eye is among the most visually compelling materials the manufacture employed. Here it is paired with the equally distinctive bark treatment, creating a combination of natural pattern and hand-worked texture that could hardly be further removed from a conventional Day-Date. Dating to the first year of the ref. 18248 and accompanied by its period accessories, this is a particularly striking example of Rolex at its most decorative.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder