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Lot #3494

Rolex Explorer 5504 Gilt Chapter Ring Super Precision

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Introduction

Inspired by the first-ever successful summit of Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and his Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, who wore a Rolex Oyster Perpetual, the Rolex Explorer has long been Rolex's ultimate adventure watch. Constructed entirely from Rolex's 904L steel, the Explorer's robust design ensures that it can always battle the elements. Featuring some of Rolex's most capable movements and a rich heritage to boot, the Explorer is another display of their timeless design as this icon of watchmaking has remained virtually untouched in its aesthetic since its inception. Identifiable by its signature 3-6-9 black dial, a flat stainless steel bezel, and entirely satin-brushed stainless steel case and bracelet, the Rolex Explorer has become renowned for its understated class, sporty elegance, and capable construction. Launched in 1958 as the non-chronometer certified Explorer variant, the ref. 5504 was powered by the automatic cal. 1530, a new movement that would go on to feature in other watches like the Submariner ref. 5508 and ref. 5510 - both icons in their own right. Boasting a black gilt "Super Precision" dial, which was only offered in 1958, this ref. 5504 is the real deal with its 1958-stamped caseback and 1958-dated serial number.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Later Rolex Box

Est. value range

$10,000 – $15,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

36mm

Model

Explorer

Movement

Automatic cal. 1530

Reference

5504

Bracelet

Stainless steel Oyster bracelet

Year

1958

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch and box

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Only offered on the ref. 5504 in its first year of production, 1958, this ref. 5504 features a stunning black gilt chapter ring "Super Precision" dial with stunningly-aged orange lume on its hands and hour markers.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Boasting the same iconic 36mm diameter that the Explorer is known for and a 20mm-wide bracelet, the ref. 5504 wears with the same poise as almost every other vintage Explorer thanks to its timeless polished bezel and Oyster bracelet.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in excellent overall condition. Case shows light wear, with its previously polished case showing only minor surface marks. The original gilt chapter ring dial retains much of its original gloss and luster, with light spotting and wear visible along the edge. Luminous is aged to a warm yellow/brown tone, with matching hands. The minute hand shows light cracking of the luminous material. Watch comes on a swiss rivet 7206 band with 75 endpieces. It has 12 links total, and fits an approx 7" wrist. The bracelet dates to 1964 and shows light stretch.

Our Perspective

A champion amongst the Explorer collection, the ref. 5504 is a rare beast indeed, and this 1958-specific configuration, with its stunning gilt chapter ring, is a must-have for any serious Rolex collector.

Eric Ku

Co-founder