Lot #4076
Rolex Explorer II 1655 Orange Hand Explorer Retailed by Tiffany & Co.
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Introduction
Launched in 1971 as the Explorer II, the ref. 1655 gave rise to the second model within Rolex’s Explorer family. While the Explorer was founded with mountaineering in mind, the Explorer II was launched for a different kind of explorer; spelunkers, or cave explorers. A sports watch inside and out, the ref. 1655 was a large watch for its time with a 39mm stainless steel case, a steel bezel, and a large black dial. Combined with this large black dial is plenty of tritium luminescent, a large orange arrow-shaped second hour hand, and Rolex’s signature date display and cyclops lens. Designed for spelunkers that would spend large amounts of time in low-light conditions in caves, Rolex designed the ref. 1655 so that its second hour hand would act as an AM/PM indicator. By locking it to the local hour hand, the orange hour hand would tell the wearer if it was day or night outside of the cave when used in conjunction with its fixed steel bezel. While in later models the second hour hand turned into a true GMT hand, its fixed steel 24-hour graduation bezel and emblematic arrow-shaped hour hand have formed the basis of its iconic design, which is retained in the modern Explorer II collection to this day.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$30,000 – $50,000
The Details
Brand
Rolex
Dimensions
38.5mm
Model
Explorer II
Movement
Automatic cal. 1570
Reference
1655
Bracelet
Stainless steel Oyster bracelet
Year
1982
Condition
Exellent
Material
Stainless steel
Included
Watch Only
Dial Color
Black
THE DISPLAY
Fitted with one of watchmaking's most iconic handsets, the ref. 1655 gave us the Explorer II's signature orange arrow-shaped GMT-hand which the collection still champions today. On top of that, this example also features the coveted "Tiffany & Co." signature that designates this example as a watch that originally retailed by the famed American jeweler to a VIP due to its rarity.
THE CONSTRUCTION
Designed to be used in low-light conditions, the ref. 1655's heavy lume, large dial and bright hands combine to ensure the Explorer II was legible at all times.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in excellent overall condition. Case is thick and full, with signs of softness and wear along the edges. The service style bezel (likely fitted by Rolex NY at a service in 2000) retains its original enameling, with some light surface marks visible on the satinated finish. Interior caseback has watchmakers marks denoting a service by Rolex NY In 2000. The original tritium dial is near-mint, showing lightly aged luminous and a clean surface. The luminous in the hands matches the dial in tone. The crystal has some scratches visible on the surface. Numbers between the lugs are clear and fully legible. The watch comes on an original 78360 oyster bracelet with 11 links total, 1 of which is removable. It fits an approx 6 3/4" wrist.
Our Perspective
Once going relatively undetected in the world of vintage Rolex as fan-favorites like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Daytona dominated the headlines, the Explorer II ref. 1655 has experienced an incredible and much-deserved spike in demand as collectors clamor to get their hands on this stunning watch.
Eric Ku
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