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Lot #3120

Rolex Explorer II 1655 Orange Hand Steve McQueen

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Introduction

Launched in 1971 as the Explorer II, the ref. 1655 gave rise to the second model within Rolex’s Explorer family. While the Explorer was founded with mountaineering in mind, the Explorer II was launched for a different kind of explorer; spelunkers, or cave explorers. A sports watch inside and out, the ref. 1655 was a large watch for its time with a 39mm stainless steel case, a steel bezel, and a large black dial. Combined with this large black dial is plenty of tritium luminescent, a large orange arrow-shaped second hour hand, and Rolex’s signature date display and cyclops lens. Designed for spelunkers that would spend large amounts of time in low-light conditions in caves, Rolex designed the ref. 1655 so that its second hour hand would act as an AM/PM indicator. By locking it to the local hour hand, the orange hour hand would tell the wearer if it was day or night outside of the cave when used in conjunction with its fixed steel bezel. While in later models the second hour hand turned into a true GMT hand, its fixed steel 24-hour graduation bezel and emblematic arrow-shaped hour hand have formed the basis of its iconic design, which is retained in the modern Explorer II collection to this day.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$15,000 – $20,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

39mm

Model

Explorer II

Movement

Automatic cal. 1570

Reference

1655

Bracelet

Stainless steel Oyster bracelet

Year

1983

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Black

THE DISPLAY
THE DISPLAY

Fitted with one of watchmaking's most iconic handsets, the ref. 1655 gave us the Explorer II's signature orange arrow-shaped GMT-hand which the collection still champions today.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Designed to be used in low-light conditions, the ref. 1655's heavy lume, large dial and bright hands combine to ensure the Explorer II was legible at all times.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in excellent overall condition. Lugs are thick and full, but exhibit some softness on the edges. Bezel shows similar soft edges, with a few marks and dings, primarily located near the 6 o'clock inner and outer edge. The original dial is in excellent overall condition. Luminous along the lower left quarter are a bit darker than the rest of dial. The hands are original and retain original luminous material, but there is a tiny crack in the hour hand luminous, and some damage in the orange 24 hr hand. Watch comes with a 78360 oyster band with 12 links total, 2 of which are removable. The bracelet fits an approx 7 1/2" wrist. One of the screws on the bracelet has a mangled head.

Our Perspective

Once going relatively undetected in the world of vintage Rolex as fan-favorites like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Daytona dominated the headlines, the Explorer II ref. 1655 has experienced an incredible and much-deserved spike in demand as collectors clamor to get their hands on this stunning watch.

Eric Ku

Co-founder