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Lot #4702

Rolex Explorer II 1655 Orange Hand Straight Seconds with Box and Booklet

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Introduction

Launched in 1971 as the Explorer II, the ref. 1655 gave rise to the second model within Rolex’s Explorer family. While the Explorer was founded with mountaineering in mind, the Explorer II was launched for a different kind of explorer; spelunkers, or cave explorers. A sports watch inside and out, the ref. 1655 was a large watch for its time with a 39mm stainless steel case, a steel bezel, and a large black dial. Combined with this large black dial is plenty of tritium luminescent, a large orange arrow-shaped second hour hand, and Rolex’s signature date display and cyclops lens. Designed for spelunkers that would spend large amounts of time in low-light conditions in caves, Rolex designed the ref. 1655 so that its second hour hand would act as an AM/PM indicator. By locking it to the local hour hand, the orange hour hand would tell the wearer if it was day or night outside of the cave when used in conjunction with its fixed steel bezel. While in later models the second hour hand turned into a true GMT hand, its fixed steel 24-hour graduation bezel and emblematic arrow-shaped hour hand have formed the basis of its iconic design, which is retained in the modern Explorer II collection to this day.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Inner and Outer Box, Oyster Booklet

Est. value range

$20,000 – $30,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

39mm

Model

Explorer II

Movement

Automatic cal. 1570

Reference

1655

Bracelet

Stainless steel Oyster bracelet

Year

1971

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch, Inner and Outer box, Oyster booklet

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Fitted with one of watchmaking's most iconic handsets, the ref. 1655 gave us the Explorer II's signature orange arrow-shaped GMT-hand, which the collection still champions today.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Designed to be used in low-light conditions, the ref. 1655's heavy lume, large dial and bright hands combine to ensure the Explorer II was legible at all times.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The steel case shows surface scratches and some more noticeable nicks, along with signs of a previous polish, while the case back displays surface scratches. The bezel remains well defined, with a sharp chamfered edge. Most of the black enamel is present, with original finish on the surface. There is an abrasion along the surface visible around the numeral 10. The dial remains excellent with pleasing patina to the hour markers, while the hands are generally clean. 12 hour hand is a bright orange tone. There are a number of scratches and scuffs on the crystal, especially on the cyclops date magnifier. It is fitted with a folded-link Oyster bracelet showing surface scratches and light to moderate play between the links. The bracelet is fitted with 12 links and fits approximately a 7¾” wrist. Comes complete with period-correct inner and outer boxes and “Your Oyster” booklet.

Our Perspective

Once going relatively undetected in the world of vintage Rolex as fan-favorites like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Daytona dominated the headlines, the Explorer II ref. 1655 has experienced an incredible and much-deserved spike in demand as collectors clamor to get their hands on this stunning watch.

Eric Ku

Co-founder