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Lot #1347

Rolex Explorer II 16550 Cream Dial Retailed By Tiffany

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Introduction

The genesis of the cream-colored 16550 are a bit of a mystery. A mistake in the mixing of the laquer perhaps? By design? No matter what you may think the origin of the story is, the cream dial 16550 has become highly sought after. The 16550 was the first sapphire crystal version of the Explorer II, as well as the first Explorer II to become available in an array of dial colors.

Debuting in 1971, the Rolex Explorer II was released to satiate the demand for a relatively niche timepiece for a particular type of explorer, Spelunkers, or cave explorers as we may call them. Made only of steel, the Explorer II's construction ensures that none of its parts might crack or break off against a rock in cramped conditions, such as a bezel insert. With this use in mind, the Explorer II originally featured its iconic arrow-shaped 24-hour hand to differentiate between AM and PM for spelunkers that might lose track of the day and night cycle while they were in caves for days at a time. The modern Explorer II models have had this function exchanged for a fully operational GMT-hand. Featuring its signature fixed stainless-steel bezel, arrow-shaped 2nd hour hand, and robust design, the Explorer II makes for an incredible jack-of-all-trades timepiece as it comprises of just about everything your modern exploring needs might demand. Whether you're 500m under a mountain, 30m underwater, or 10,000m in the air on a trans-Atlantic flight, the Explorer II has you covered.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

M 8

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$15,000 – $20,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Explorer II

Movement

Automatic cal. 3085

Reference

16550

Bracelet

Stainless Steel Oyster bracelet

Year

1987

Condition

Very Good

Material

Stainless Steel

Included

Watch Only

Dial Color

Cream

THE DIAL

Featuring a beautiful, yellowed cream-colored dial, this example's dial is perhaps one of the most unique we have come across to date and even comes co-signed bearing the name of legendary American jeweler Tiffany & Co.

THE BEZEL

Perhaps one of the Explorer II ref. 16550's most striking pieces of design is its stainless steel bezel. With its angular font featuring square zeros and sharp corners, the ref. 16550 departs from the other Explorer II variant's aesthetic almost entirely due to its bezel's aggressive aesthetic.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

In overall very good condition. The case and bezel have some surface wear and abrasions, and the enamel on the bezel is mostly intact. There The dial itself has developed a lovely cream-ivory patina and the numerals have all aged consistently. There are some minor defects including a scratch thru the leter E in ROLEX, as well as a few hairline cracks near some of the hour markers, namely at 8 10 and 12. The bracelet has moderate wear. There are 13 links total, with 3 being removable.

Our Perspective

A legendary watch in its own right, it's not every day you see a cream-dial ref. 16550. However, a Tiffany-stamped cream dial ref. 16550, that's another story. Particularly interesting is its transitional appearance, being a 16550 with its thick font bezel, while having a cream dial with a non-rail dial and black rimmed indexes. An amazingly rare watch by all accounts, any collector would be happy to have this beauty.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder