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Lot #5324

Rolex Explorer II 16550 Polar

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Introduction

Introduced in the mid-1980s, the Rolex Explorer II ref. 16550 was a short-lived but important transitional reference between the original ref. 1655 and the long-running ref. 16570. Its most significant mechanical development was the automatic calibre 3085, which introduced an independently adjustable conventional hour hand. This transformed the fixed 24-hour indication of the original Explorer II into a true second-time-zone display. The 16550 also introduced sapphire crystal, a redesigned 24-hour bezel and, for the first time in the Explorer II family, the option of a white “Polar” dial.

The present watch is a later example with a non-rail white dial featuring black surrounds to the luminous hour markers. This dial configuration may represent a later service replacement, particularly as the watch retains steel hands rather than the black hands associated with the subsequent ref. 16570; without supporting Rolex documentation, however, we cannot establish when the dial was fitted. Particularly attractive is the tritium luminous material, which has developed a rich vanilla tone across the dial and hands. Together with the drilled-lug case and fixed steel 24-hour bezel, these details capture the transitional nature that makes the ref. 16550 such an interesting chapter in the Explorer II's evolution.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

M 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$6,000 – $10,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Explorer II

Movement

Automatic Rolex calibre 3085

Reference

16550

Bracelet

Stainless steel Oyster bracelet

Year

1988

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

White

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

This Polar dial features black surrounds to the luminous hour markers, contrasting strongly against its glossy white surface. The tritium has developed a rich vanilla hue with age. The watch retains steel hands rather than the black handset associated with the succeeding ref. 16570, creating an interesting mixture of characteristics.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

The 40mm stainless steel Oyster case retains drilled lugs and is fitted with the fixed 24-hour steel bezel characteristic of the Explorer II. For the ref. 16550, Rolex redesigned the bezel graphics, replacing the simple odd-hour lines of the ref. 1655 with triangular markers which was a design language carried into subsequent Explorer II generations.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The stainless steel case shows light surface scratches and small nicks, with signs of a previous polish. The case back shows light surface scratches. The bezel has also been refinished, with some enamel missing from the markings. The dial is in near-mint condition, with patina to the applied tritium hour plots. The index surrounds are black colored, and the dial is likely a replacement dial from a 16570. The white metal hands show some spots of oxidation and discolouration to the luminous material in the hour hand. The Oyster bracelet with Fliplock clasp shows surface scratches and moderate play between the links. The bracelet is fitted with 11 links, 1 of which is removable, and fits approximately a 7½” wrist.

Our Perspective

The appeal of the ref. 16550 lies in its transitional nature. Produced for only a relatively brief period, it introduced the white Polar dial and independently adjustable local-hour hand while retaining details such as drilled lugs that connect it to earlier Rolex tool watches. This example is particularly intriguing for its later non-rail dial, original-style steel handset and beautifully aged vanilla tritium.

Eric Ku

Co-founder