Introduction
First released in 1945 in honor of the British RAF following their efforts in WWII, the Air-King has become one of the longest-serving members of Rolex’s catalog, with its official debut as a standalone collection, as we know it today, tracing its origins a little bit more recently to 1958. Since then, the collection has become one of Rolex’s most unique collections, with its design and construction often used as a means to push aesthetic boundaries and experiment with design in a way that few other collections within the Rolex family could. As such, the Air-King collection has been found to sport a vast expanse of dial colors and set-ups, with different bezel configurations and a large variety of sizes, with this ref. 5500 being the perfect example of that very essence, because this is not a normal ref. 5500: it is an Explorer. Produced between 1958 and 1967, the Explorer ref. 5500 was offered as a scaled-down version of the 36mm Explorer, with the Explorer ref. 5500 featuring the Air-King’s 34mm construction, smaller hands, and “Precision” designation instead of the Explorer’s usual “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”. However, none of this takes away from the ref. 5500 Explorer’s desirability, with its obscure history and extreme rarity (when compared to that of its Air-King-branded ref. 5500 siblings), combining to create a wonderfully obscure part of Rolex’s history. Made for the UK market and most commonly sold through NAAFI stores, which were the British military’s equivalent of the US’ Post Exchange stores that sell goods to military personnel and their families living on military installations, these timepieces are inextricably linked to Rolex’s rich heritage creating timepieces for militaries across the world.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch only
Est. value range
$8,000 – $12,000
The Details
Brand
Rolex
Dimensions
34mm
Model
Explorer
Movement
Automatic cal. 1520
Reference
5500
Bracelet
Stainless steel Oyster bracelet
Year
1967
Condition
Excellent
Material
Stainless steel
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Black
THE DIAL
Featuring some subtle differences to the Explorer's usual dial design, the ref. 5500 Explorer's black 3-6-9 gilt dial features a slightly smaller handset (in line with its smaller 34mm construction) and a "Precision" designation at 6 o'clock instead of the usual “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”.
THE CONSTRUCTION
Featuring the Explorer's (and the Air-King's) no-frills construction, the ref. 5500's aesthetic is defined by its flat polished bezel, lack of crown guards, and Rolex's signature Oyster bracelet.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
The watch is in overall excellent condition. The steel case has some scratches and marks commensurate with a watch of this vintage, and the brushed areas of the case have developed a sheen from wear over the decades. The case back has some scratches and nicks. The gilt dial is near-mint, retaining its glossy finish and clean lume plots. The hands show some discoloration in the lume, and the seconds hand has been relumed at some point. The Swiss rivet-link Oyster bracelet has surface marks and light play between the links. The bracelet has 12 links and fits an approximately 7 1/4” wrist.
Our Perspective
Created for the UK market, this ref. 5500 - which is normally a reference used by the Air-King collection - boasts a unique Explorer-branded dial that combines with its 34mm construction to imbue this watch with an unusual personality that vintage Rolex collectors seek out in the brand's revered timepieces.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
