Introduction
While Rolex is best known for its professional sports watches and iconic Oyster models, the manufacture has an equally fascinating history of producing elegant jewellery watches. Throughout the twentieth century, Rolex developed an extensive collection of precious-metal ladies' watches that combined traditional Swiss watchmaking with the craftsmanship of fine jewellery. Among these was the Orchid collection, a range of refined, manually wound timepieces characterised by their delicate proportions, decorative cases and beautifully integrated gold bracelets.
Dating to circa 1981, this Rolex Orchid ref. 2664 is an attractive example of the collection, featuring an unusual softly squared case crafted in 18K yellow gold and surrounded by a diamond-set bezel. Its champagne dial is elegantly understated, with applied baton hour markers, slender hands and a gold Rolex coronet at twelve o'clock. The watch is fitted with an integrated 18K yellow gold bracelet featuring a distinctive textured finish, creating a continuous design from the case through to the clasp.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
M 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$3,000 – $5,000
The Details
Brand
Rolex
Dimensions
23mm L x 22.5mm W
Model
Orchid
Movement
Manual-winding Rolex movement
Reference
2664
Bracelet
Integrated 18K yellow gold bracelet
Year
1981
Condition
Excellent
Material
18K Yellow Gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Champagne
THE DIAL
The champagne dial features applied gold baton hour markers, slender hands and the Rolex coronet at twelve o'clock. The Orchid signature appears above six o'clock, identifying the watch as part of Rolex's traditional jewellery collection. Its understated design provides an elegant contrast to the surrounding diamond-set bezel.
THE CONSTRUCTION
The softly squared 18K yellow gold case features a bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds, following the curved contours of the watch. An integrated gold bracelet displays a distinctive textured finish, with an intricate repeating pattern that complements the decorative case.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K yellow gold case shows surface marks and light scratches. The case back retains well-defined serial and reference stamps, along with two legible hallmarks. The diamonds and their settings are all in excellent condition. The champagne dial is in very good condition, with some surface spotting and patches of degradation. The hands remain clean. The integrated 18K yellow gold bracelet shows some wear and softening to the outer finish, along with surface scratches to the clasp. Bracelet has a Rolex coronet on the clasp, but is signed Italy on the inside. Many of the intricate jewelry bracelets at the time were contract manufactured in Italy, and the makers mark can still be found on the clasp. The bracelet fits approximately a 5¾” wrist.
Our Perspective
Rolex's vintage jewellery watches offer an interesting alternative to the professional models that dominate the brand's collecting landscape. The Orchid ref. 2664 is particularly appealing for its combination of traditional watchmaking and decorative goldsmithing, with the diamond-set case and textured integrated bracelet creating a cohesive piece of jewellery.
Justin Gruenberg
Co-founder
