Introduction
The ref. 6090 belongs to one of the most distinctive families of early Rolex Oyster Perpetuals, immediately recognisable by the sculpted lugs that gave the watch its collector nickname, “Bombé”, French for domed or rounded. Produced principally during the 1950s, the reference combined these unusually expressive case forms with a remarkable variety of dial executions, including some exceptionally elaborate black and two-tone examples. At approximately 34mm, the result is a watch that has considerably more presence than its dimensions might suggest, particularly when executed in 18K yellow gold.
Dating to around 1952, this example is especially striking for its black gilt dial, with an outer chapter ring and luminous material incorporated into the applied three, six and nine o'clock hour markers. The dial is additionally signed “Officially Certified Chronometer”, reflecting the chronometer-rated positioning of this Oyster Perpetual. Of particular interest is the presence of its original Super Oyster crown, Rolex's short-lived and ill=fated non-screw-down crown system most closely associated with the early 1950s. Many were replaced at service, making it a nice period touch.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$4,000 – $6,000
The Details
Brand
Rolex
Dimensions
34mm
Model
Oyster Perpetual Bombé
Movement
Automatic Rolex calibre A.260
Reference
6090
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
1952
Condition
Excellent
Material
18K Yellow Gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Black
THE DIAL
The black gilt dial is framed by an outer chapter ring and carries applied gold hour markers, with luminous material incorporated into the three, six and nine indexes. Gilt printing complements the yellow gold case, while the “Officially Certified Chronometer” signature adds another layer of interest to this particularly attractive dial configuration.
THE CONSTRUCTION
The approximately 34mm case is executed in 18K yellow gold and defined by the dramatically sculpted, curving lugs responsible for the Bombé nickname. Particularly noteworthy is the original Super Oyster crown, a short-lived Rolex system designed to provide water resistance without requiring the wearer to screw the crown onto the case tube.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K yellow gold case shows scratches and small nicks, as expected of a watch of this vintage, with signs of a previous polish. The hallmark on the case back remains legible. The black gilt dial is in excellent condition, with strong galvanic printing to the chapter ring and upper text. There is some fading to the surface printed OCC text in the lower half of the dial. The dauphine hands remain clean. It is fitted with a brown leather Rolex strap and gold-plated Rolex pin buckle showing some surface marks.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
The Bombé is a wonderful reminder of how adventurous Rolex could be with its ostensibly simple Oyster Perpetual watches. The sculptural gold case already gives the ref. 6090 enormous personality, but this example's black gilt OCC dial, luminous 3-6-9 markers and surviving Super Oyster crown elevate it considerably.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
