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Lot #1381

Rolex Red Submariner 1680 Box & Papers

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Introduction

Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, the Rolex has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. The Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it today remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.

Released around 1967, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 marked a change of direction for the famed Genevan watchmaker. While tool watches had long been Rolex's focus during the 1950s, Submariner ref. 1680 announced Rolex's intention to cater to a new, larger market. The ref. 1680's new date function marked Rolex's true recognition that their watches had become an accessory worn by those that did not need Rolex's impressive tool-watch capabilities but rather everyday conveniences. The first production examples of the ref. 1680 were denoted by their red "Submariner" inscription, which was later phased out for white text by 1973, in keeping with the rest of the dial's design. An essential piece of horological history, the Submariner ref. 1680 "Red" sowed the seed for what would become the archetypal Submariner – the Submariner Date, a fact that collectors continue to appreciate as the ref. 1680 continues to skyrocket in desirability.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Box and Hand Written Guarantee Papers

Est. value range

$20,000 – $30,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm x 14.7mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Automatic cal. 1570

Reference

1680

Bracelet

Stainless Steel Oyster bracelet

Year

1973

Condition

Very Good

Material

Stainless Steel

Included

Watch, Box and Hand Written Guarantee Papers

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

Featuring the elusive red "Submariner" inscription on its dial, this ref. 1680 Red Submariner's hands and luminous markers have developed a stunning deep shade of ivory that give this beautifully-preserved example plenty of character and intrigue.

THE CONSTRUCTION

Preserved in wonderful condition, this example's black aluminum bezel retains its jet-black color and lacks any scratches or dents that might interfere with its condition.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

In very well preserved condition. The dial is excellent, the lumes have aged to a very warm ivory which is consistent with the ageing of the hands. The hands with some light oxidation. The insert is also in very nice original condition. The case with strong bevels that are easily seen, the case with surface wear and some minor light dings which is more than consistent with the age of the watch. The numbers between the lugs are legible and very easy to read. The 91350 oyster bracelet is a slightly later addition, with "VD" date code from 1979 has some light surface wear and 11 links. It has minimal stretch. A very nice example of a MK5 red Sub complete with accessories, a lovely vintage example of a 1680.

Our Perspective

We consider the 1680 Submariner to be one of the foundational pieces of any vintage Rolex collection. With its important role in the Submariner's evolution, the ref. 1680 marked the beginning of the Submariner's role in everyday life as a watch that could tackle anything - a reputation that it still holds to this day.

Eric Ku

Co-founder