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Lot #1691

Rolex Red Submariner 1680 Meters FIrst Dial

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Introduction

Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, the Rolex has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. The Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it today remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.

Released around 1967, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 marked a change of direction for the famed Genevan watchmaker. While tool watches had long been Rolex's focus during the 1950s, Submariner ref. 1680 announced Rolex's intention to cater to a new, larger market. The ref. 1680's new date function marked Rolex's true recognition that their watches had become an accessory worn by those that did not need Rolex's impressive tool-watch capabilities but rather everyday conveniences. The first production examples of the ref. 1680 were denoted by their red "Submariner" inscription, which was later phased out for white text by 1973, in keeping with the rest of the dial's design. An essential piece of horological history, the Submariner ref. 1680 "Red" sowed the seed for what would become the archetypal Submariner – the Submariner Date, a fact that collectors continue to appreciate as the ref. 1680 continues to skyrocket in desirability.

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Grade

V 8.0

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$10,000 – $15,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm x 14.7mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Automatic cal. 1570

Reference

1680

Bracelet

Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet

Year

1968

Condition

Very Good

Material

Stainless Steel

Included

Watch Only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

Featuring a Mark 2 "meters first" dial, this watch was produced in the earliest days of production of Red Submariners, as subsequent examples featured a "feet first" dial.

THE MOVEMENT

The Red Submariner features the date version of the legendary workhorse 1570 movement, which was in use by Rolex from the early 1960's until the early 1990's.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in very good overall condition. Case exhibits wear along the lugs and edges, and the bezel insert has lost its pearl and has some minor damage visible on the "3" of 30. Original tritium meters first dial is in excellent condition, with some light staining on the luminous dots and some surface spotting along the right side of the dial. The watch has been fitted with a non-cyclops crystal. The original tritium hands are a matching shade of cream. Watch comes on a later solid oyster bracelet with 11 links total, one removable. It exhibits light stretch and notching in the links.

Our Perspective

The Rolex Red Submariner is the quintessential Rolex "Tool Watch" and should be in every collector's repertoire With its iconic good looks, it is hard to imagine a better embodiment of the best that Rolex had to offer in the 1960's and 1970's.